Saturday, 28 May 2016

Brooklyn Coat by Tessuti

The Brooklyn Coat pattern was released by Tessuti a few weeks ago. Like the Sydney Coat it's intended to be sewn with a boiled wool, leaving the seams exposed. I saw a sample of the coat in-store before it was released and got to try it in. I really REALLY liked it so as soon as the pattern was released I sewed up my version.

Stupid me disobeyed the fabric guidelines and made this from a wool that does fray - I thought it wouldn't matter (you know, sew it with a triple stitch so it doesn't fray into the seams) but I really think the coat does not look good in this fabric. It needs that "bobliness" of a boiled wool so the stitches sink in to the fabric and the seams sit well but I just couldn't afford to buy the fabric from Tessuti. It's lovely but just way beyond my budget .  I bought this lovely, soft wool from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto so it's a "bit special" but to be honest I wasn't quite sure what I was going to do with it (I had cape plans, but meh...) so I'm not too sad it's turned into something I probably won't wear. I'm just glad it's out of the stash.

Looking at the photos of this coat on me it does look too big, but it's actually not (the fit is intended to be "oversized"). If anything I could do with a smidgen more room across the butt area and perhaps even a bit more at the front so I can overlap it more and really snuggle into it when the weather gets cold. I wonder if I can make the collar larger too?

The pattern has side, patch pockets that I initially sewed on the wrong way as the photo in the pattern instructions booklet is too zoomed in for me to make out what is the top of the pocket (I also found this a problem with some of the photos in the Sydney Jacket). Derp. I'll know better for next time. I also need to move the pockets forward at least 1.5" as they sit too far back for me to comfortably put my hands in. That's an very easy fix. The pattern also has back patch pockets but I've let those off as it's just a bit too "cool" for this old lady.

Close up of the pockets - after I'd spent 90 minutes unpicking the triple stitching and stitched them on the right way. I used the fabric selvedge for the pocket edge (where my hands go in)...but you can see in this photo how the woven wool does not really work for exposed seams of this pattern. I also have no bothered to totally finish the sleeves on the jacket - they are meant to have a cuff on them, but I just couldn't be bothered to be honest as I'm not going to wear this.

...and back view.  Also deciding if the length is too long.

Initially I wasn't going to make this pattern again as I'm not sure of the fit on me but the more I think about it the more I want to try it in a boiled wool before discounting it entirely (I found a nice wool for $30p/m at Pitt Trading).


Pattern: "Brooklyn Coat" by Tessuti
Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance
Modifications: None
Fabric: Wool from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto
Changes for next time: Sew an XL, but perhaps make it shorter! Move the pockets forward, perhaps make the collar bigger and add a bit more width to the front panels and also to the back if I can figure out how to do that

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