Helen's Closet - Blackwood Cardigan

I've not done a lot of sewing this year...for a few reasons.

Firstly, I just don't feel like it. I have enough clothes so making things seems pointless. And then I've lost a bit of weight and in just wanting stuff that fits "right now" I've been shopping for any new things I need (or want) like pants (which I don't tend to sew anyway). For me shopping is still the quickest and easiest way to fill wardrobe gaps. And, perhaps the biggest reason is that back in February our unit was flooded during a great big storm in Sydney. Whilst my sewing area was OK we had to move everything out of the flooded rooms and into the dining room so we could repair the flood damaged rooms...and the dining room is where I sew. We're on the last leg of fixing up the flat with just the study repairs to go...so in 2020 perhaps I'll have sewing space again.

All of that aside I have sewn two versions of the Helen's Closet Blackwood Cardigan. I've sewn the XXL in the original release (Helen has now also re-released the pattern with a plus-sized option). This first version is made in a stretchy, textured cotton knit from My Hung Fabrics. It was actually a bit big in the sleeves when I finished it so I washed it in hot water and put it the dryer...perfect fit now. 

My second version was sewn up at a Spoolettes sewing day where the chosen pattern for the day was the Blackwood Cardigan. I have had this fabric (from Cabramatta) in my stash for AGES...desperate to make something with it, but what? I've sewn the XXL again and I knew the sleeves would be OK as this fabric has less stretch than the black fabric from my first Blackwood.

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Pattern: Helen's Closet - Blackwood Cardigan 
Size: size XXL
Modifications: none
Fabric: Various from My Hung and from Cabrmatta
Changes for next time: none 

A (new) York Pinafore

Wow, it's been a REALLY long time between sewing project and blog posts. I have just NOT been feeling the sewing love recently and despite that I did sew two Mandy Boat Tees that had failed in a spectacular way (here and here) so that put me off sewing even more. One problem is that over the summer my arms seem to have expanded (probably due to overeating and not the humidity) so the sleeves on the Mandy Boat are too tight unless I use some crazy, super stretchy fabric. Hmmm....

However...I had kind of been feeling like perhaps I should be sewing something rather than spending all my free time binge watching Outlander and Scandal but couldn't think of what. I had seen the release of the York Pinafore pattern by Helen's Closet but dismissed as "not for me, not my style" until I heard her talking about it on her podcast...it seemed like a simple sew, in my size range and I had some fabric in the stash that would be perfect for it (a long sold out Cotton/Elastane Stretch Woven Velveteen from Tessuti that I had leftover of from another project). Thus...here we are!

The pattern comes with two options for different types of "patch pockets" but I decided to go sans pockets as I felt it would make the pattern more "streamlined" and also because my sewing is not that neat or straight and dodgy pockets will make the pinafore look homemade in the worst kind of way. I was also jumping right in with my "good fabric" and fitting pockets into a side seam was more than I could bear as it meant basting...ugh ugh. Turns out that was a good decision as I ended up taking in the side seams but 0.75cm each as the cocoon shape was just too much fabric at my hips. I have been thinking about going back and perhaps adding in the kangaroo pocket so watch this space.

Overall this project was a quick and satisfying sew, made even more so by leaving off the pockets. Using bias binding is always super fiddly and slow but it does give a pleasingly neat result that makes me smile smugly whenever I look at it.

I sewed the largest size there was (XXL), and also added an inch to the upper bodice straps to account for a bust size that is bigger than the pattern is drafted for. There are two neckline options and I sewed the more scooped neck version. I ended up taking in the side seams about 0.75cm as it was just too big and I would like to straighten up the seam around the hip area as there's just too much fabric there making me feel bigger than I am. I sewed the longest length available but am going to unpick the hem and take things up about an inch or so.

The VERDICT: Whilst I like the concept of this pinafore what I really hate WITH A PASSION is layering . I hate wearing multiple layers with things riding up and down and me constantly adjusting my clothes. I wore this out to a family do on the weekend and I felt so fat and frumpy. I'm willing to give this another try though once it's shorter and slimmer at the sides; and I'm even thinking of making one in denim that I think would be better to wear in warmer weather - no tights = less layering!

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Pattern: York Pinafore by Helen's Closet

Size: XXL
Modifications: added 1" to the upper bodice straps for a large bust. Took in side seams about 0.75cm.
Fabric: Cotton/Elastane Stretch Woven Velveteen from Tessuti
Changes for next time: sew a smaller size/straighten up the hip; reduce the length.