Leather Bag

Instagram tells me I bought this leather hide from an outing to Birdsall Leather back in May 2016. I had plans to make a tote from it but wasn't feeling brave enough to tackle it back then so it's been rolled up and hidden under my fabric cupboard ever since. That said I did use a very tiny piece of it to make a clutch about a year ago.

Over the last few months the Genoa Tote I made back in January 2017, and used daily, was starting to look a little worse for wear. It kinda also started to smell so I put it through the washing machine -- leather handles and all ! I NEEDED a new bag, and I needed it NOW!

I modeled this bag loosely on my Genoa Tote by including a key clip, internal (though zipperless) internal pocket and I also used a set of handles I'd bought for a Genoa Tote plus I added in a handy front pocket. The bag itself is just two A3 size pieces of leather sewn together with the seams on the outside. I've this type of seam treatment around and quite liked it. It took about 90 minutes from beginning to end - including cutting out the leather.

My machine handled the leather...sort of OK, but it wasn't all smooth sailing as the foot didn't really move along the leather very well so there are so very small stitches with the sewing stalled a bit. It was also really really hard to sew a straight line so things are a bit skewiff but I don't think it's very noticeable.

When  I first used the bag I found that it was too deep and not wide enough - it was annoying to try and find things in it so I ended up buying myself a work bag that has worked much better. This week I've been on annual leave between jobs and have started using the bag again and without all the cr@p I lug to the office it's proving to be nicer to use. I've even received a few unsolicited comments on it which is always the ultimate when your wearing your handmade stuff!

Genoa Tote - it's LOVE!

I bought the Genoa Tote pattern after seeing LOTS and LOTS of great version popping up on Instagram...and then I sat on it as, you know, it has some scary stuff...like a zipper and lining and using rivets to secure the leather handle. I was worried I'd not be able to make the bag without f**king it up. Basically I doubted myself and my skills and didn't think I was smart enough or a good enough sewist to pull it off as it was so new to me and out of my skill set even though it's quite a simple pattern.  

I'm pleased to say that I've survived making my first (yes first as there will be MORE) Genoa Tote and totally enjoyed the process! And it's almost perfect too!

I've had this denim in my stash for ages -- bought probably for a skirt that I was never going to make. I then decided I'd use it for a bag and gathered some bits and pieces from ETSY (like leather handles {not used here}) but never got any further as I didn't know what I was doing bag-wise...how to design it or construct it was just beyond me even though I had some ideas. The Genoa Tote is pretty much exactly what I was looking for and I love the literally endless ways you can combine fabric and ideas to come up with a truly unique bag.

The other two fabrics are quite special so I was pretty brave (or silly) using them for a new-to-me pattern. The dotty chambray (used for the bag lining) was bought from the Nani Iro Atelier in Osaka. I'm not sure why I bought a woven piece of fabric other than I liked it. The Japanese print on the left was given to me by a stallholder at a food market in Osaka. We did a food tour and had a lovely sit-down tasting as this stall and when we left the stallholder gave me the fabric placements we used. Both of these fabrics have good memories attached to them and I'm glad I've finally been able to use them. I wasn't sure how strong/durable these two fabrics would be so I interfaced both of them with iron-on interfacing.

Construction went well and this mainly due to the great instructions from the pattern designer, Anna. Everything was very clear and on steps I was a bit hazy on the accompanying photos helped to set me straight. I even managed to get my zipper in (after a few goes) and it looks pretty good. I ended up using my regular foot as the zipper foot wasn't working for me and I wasn't really sure what I was doing (or even if the zipper foot in my inherited machine belonged to it). Although the pattern doesn't call for it I also finished all my seams on the overlocker as I was worried all my hard work would unravel from the inside.

The other addition I made to the pattern was to add a large front pocket - sewn down the middle to make two smaller sections to give me quick access to my phone, bus pass, ventolin and lip goop. The rivet in the centre is purely decorative (and installed by Dave as I was too chicken to do it myself). I got this idea from a fellow sewist, Sue, whom I met in Melbourne over the holidays. 

As my denim has a small amount of stretch to it I think the facing may have stretched a bit...but nothing to worry about! I did topstitch around the top of the facing to make sure things didn't flip up (as well as understitching it as the pattern says to).

I love the inside of this bag and that I have a little memory of Japan hidden away in here.

The final part of the bag is to attach the leather handles using rivets. I bought the handles, rivets, key chain and rivet setting tool from Pattern Fantastique's online store (who collaborated on the pattern with Blogless Anna). The handles are made by Anna and sold via Pattern Fantastique. I thought attaching them would be the step that really messes up the bag and I was going to get Dave to do it...but he was out so I bit the bullet and did it and it wasn't difficult at all. The hardest part was getting a big enough hole in the denim to push the rivets through.

I feel like completing the Genoa Tote is a gateway to all sorts of non-clothes related sewing. And, I LIKE it! It's great sewing something and not worrying about fit (or neckbands)!

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Pattern: "Genoa Tote" by Blogless Anna and Pattern Fantastique

Size: M
Modifications: Interfaced the lining and pocket; finished all seams on the overlocker; added a double pocket to the front; top stitched the facing to the bag. 
Fabric:  Denim, Nani Iro double guaze, Japanese cotton

Little leather clutch

About this time last year I bought this little leather remnant from The Fabric Store with the hopes of making a bag to take along to Melbourne Frocktails. If I couldn't make a dress successfully at least the bag would be made by me. Nope...things didn't quite work out.

I had initially wanted to install a closure for the bag that required punching and hammering...but it just didn't work out. I managed to un-pry the bent and dented closure without damaging the leather, but as I didn't know how to next proceed the bag was left in a dark drawer, mainly forgotten about.

Fast forward to our trip in Japan where I found these nifty little leather closures at my beloved Nomura Tailor. The closures screw in and just require a hole punched through both parts of the leather (bag and flap) in order to work. If you are looking for something similar this is the sort of thing and is available via etsy.

Source

After I had the fundamentals of closing the bag sorted the rest was pretty simple. I had traced the shape of the bag I wanted onto some paper and then traced that onto the leather before cutting it out. I stuck each of the side seams down with Wondertape (don't pin leather as it will leave holes) and then stitched with my machine. I used a leather needle and I had bought special thread, but it wouldn't fit through my needle without shredding, so I just used it in the bobbin.  I also increased my stitch length a little bit. Things sewed OK but the machine was a bit clunky. Apparently if you increase the stitch length substantially things will be less clunky!

I'm pretty chuffed with this little bag and I'm going to take it to the upcoming High Tea I'm organising for the Sydney Spoolettes....under the same assumption that I won't be wearing a me-made dress, but at least something will be made by me!

Now that I have a small taste of sewing with letter I'm quite keen to make a simple tote with a pouch for my travel card and phone. Watch this space...