Colette Patterns Myrtle Dress

Back in 2014 I made a slew of  Colette Patterns Myrtle Dresses trying to get the fit right on me with the main issue being armholes that were too high and too small; and the back neckline would stretch out. I finally got a wearable dress in the end but shipped it off to a charity donation for some inexplicable reason as I really liked it?

When I was rummaging through my stash cupboard recently I rediscovered this light-weight Polyester Elastane from Lincraft (bought back in the good-old-days when they had a bricks and mortar store in Parramatta). I think I purchased it for an Ebony Tee but as luck would have it I had enough to make a dress. I think this fabric is pretty ugly to be honest but it transformed itself into something not-too-bad once sewn into garment. 

I decided to make the bodice of dress, just to see if I was happy with my adjustments from 2014 and to see if it still fit me. I did have a slight mishap with the overlocker but recovered from that, took a deep breathe and moved on. I added 1"of length to bodice and mucked around with the armhole depth a bit more. This is the size XL with an inch added to the bodice. Fits. Happy. 

After a bit of lunchtime and after-work sewing I had the full dress nearly complete - but it sat with the hem undone for quite a few weeks. I wanted to do a rolled hem on the overlocker but resisted as I didn't want to faff around changing my overlocker settings. I'm sure we all know that feeling.

Took a few goes with various elastics to get to where it's comfortable at the waist. I'm glad I added some length to the bodice as other versions have always felt a bit too short. 

After procrastinating for a few weeks I did finally hem this dress. I did do a "proper" hem to start but it was B.A.D (wonky and wobbly - which probably would've been OK if the dress was black as it would've hidden my mess). Fiddled around for ages to get the rolled hem on my overlocker looking good and then had to do it twice as I missed a bit a left a hole. But it's done and I like it...

I have this dress now nicely folded on a shelf in my wardrobe. I'm super worried about the back neckline stretching out like it has before so better to be safe than sorry as I really like this dress! 

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Pattern: Myrtle Dress by Colette Patterns
Size: XL
Modifications: Armholes changed to Size L; and then lowered at the arm pit by 1cm.
Fabric: Polyester Elastaine from Lincraft (the same print I made my very first, too small, Myrtle out of).
Changes for next time: None, though I'd like to try it in a "not" polyester elastaine.

More Mabel Skirts...

Nothing new here today - just three more Mabel Skirts. Two are winners, one is a big fat fail. Let's start with the bad news first and then end on a happy note!

I'm really bummed that this skirt is a fail as the fabric is my much sought after "jegging" fabric - bought in Hanoi at the Dong Xuan market (so it's not replaceable at this point in time). Basically - the stretch on this fabric runs up and down the fabric and not across but I still but it cut it out as I normally would. Thus, we have a really bloody tight skirt that is so uncomfortable! I'm lucky I have enough left to give this another go - hopefully it will work out when the time comes. I did also find some similar fabric via an online store in Australia...so all is not lost.

This skirt is refashioned from The Casual Lady Dress that I made back in 2015. The dress either shrunk in the wash or I expanded in the wash - either way it didn't fit comfortable anymore and wasn't getting worn. I love the fabric (from fabric.com) so decided to make it into a Mabel Skirt. I was (obviously) very tired when this photo was being taken.

I have no idea why I bought the below fabric - I think I had it mind for a dress, but hindsight is 20:20 as this is not a fabric I'd wear in a dress as it's not stretchy enough. This Cotton/Elastane Stretch Woven Velveteen is from Tessuti and I still have quite a bit left (no idea what to do with it). Anyway...it's made an nice skirt, though it does get a bit baggy in the butt area after I've been sitting in it for awhile.

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Pattern: "Mabel Skirt" by Colette Patterns

Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance and lengthened by 15cm. Depending on how stretchy the fabric is I add 1cm - 2cm. 
Modifications: 5cm elastic waistband (added 10cm to the pattern to accommodate for this), 15cm added to length. 
Fabric: Various
Changes for next time: none. 

Midi Mabel Skirt

I think I've made about 30 Mabel Skirts since the pattern was released (no exaggeration). Some successful. Some destined for the bin.

About a week ago I started obsessing about NEEDING a black calf length pencil skirt. No idea where the desire came from but I thought I'd better make it happen!

The fabric is a ribbed jersey from The Remnant Warehouse...bought online when I was searching for ribbed knits.  I'd originally set out to make a Simplicity 1366 dress from it but the neckline stretched out and the whole thing looks frumpy. I couldn't rescue the fabric despite trying so ordered more specifically for this skirt.

I'd already lengthened View A of the pattern to make it knee length on me, plus 10cm added to accommodate for the wide elastic waistband I use. I then lengthened all of this by 20cm and added a 2" hem to get a length that hits just below my calf. I pegged the skirt in a bit at the bottom and think it would be better a bit more fitted still - but then I might not be able to walk, which could be an issue?

I'm wearing this skirt at work today...very comfy. I think I made the waistband a bit too loose though (despite unpicking the whole thing and bringing it in by an inch). Good thing is if it does feel way too big I can take the waistband in even more...

The weather is cooling down in Sydney now (thank goodness) and I am keen to find some ribbed wool-knit to make a snuggly winter-version of this skirt. Any ideas where one could find such a fabric in Oz?

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Pattern: "Mabel Skirt" by Colette Patterns
Modifications: 5cm elastic waistband (added 10cm to the pattern to accommodate for this), 35cm added to length, pegged in the bottom by. 1cm added to the CF and CB to accommodate for middle-aged spread.

Fabric:  Superior Rib Jersey- Black from The Remnant Warehouse (Cotton / Polyester / Elastane)

Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance

Sydney Frocktails

On Saturday night Sydney held its second Frocktails - a cocktail party/raucous catch-up where attendees are encouraged to wear something fancy and me-made. Frocktails happen all around Australia and are usually organised for members of the Spoolettes group by members of the Spoolettes groups - although anyone who sews can attend.

Saturday night saw 70 ladies descend on the The Edinburgh Castle Hotel in the city. It was a great night - catching up with old friends and meeting a lot of new sewing buddies. It was perfectly acceptable to go up to someone and say "I love your dress" and make a grab to fondle their fabric...often followed by "hello"! Priorities!

I still don't have any "fancy dress" sewing under my belt so I went with a Mabel Skirt made in a bonded lace ponti from the Fabric Muse. The fabric doesn't have much stretch so I added 2cm to both the front and back fold to ensure I could breath and not bust any seams. The top is just a cheapie modal jersey from Uniqlo -- I knew it was going to be hot so wanted something that I knew I'd feel cool in. To "pad out" my me-made skirt I also took my leather Essential Wristlet with me and made some VERY sparkly polymer beads for a necklace and earrings - I don't think I'll ever get all the glitter out of my house after making these!

I felt pretty good all night - comfortable and not too hot. Best of all I felt like me, not dressed up in clothes that I just wouldn't wear and would feel not myself in. And, best of all I can re-wear and re-use everything!

I think everyone had a VERY VERY good time and is eagerly awaiting our next Frocktails which I've heard may be in late October this year. I'm already thinking about what to sew for my next Frocktails outfit...I have an idea for a dress! Fancy!

A big thanks has to go to Caz from UsefulBox who arranged the entire event as well as some great door prizes too! And thanks to her hubby who took great photos of everyone on the night.

Navy Mabel Skirt

Lucky me received a Tessuti gift voucher from Dave for Christmas. Over Christmas we were in Melbourne so I ducked into Tessuti to see what they had for me - plus it was sale time. Winning.

I did a few laps of the store and nothing really jumped out at me that would work with my $50 voucher. After fondling some Navy Ponti for a while I decided that I NEEDED a navy skirt for my work wardrobe (I also bought some fabric for a top/dress - not yet made up as I'm waiting for the pattern to arrive from eBay).

Yes, I know, ANOTHER Mabel Skirt! But, it's a pattern that works for me, is comfortable and when it's hot they are something I reach for to wear with a simple tee to work. I'm not really loving my earlier ones anymore with the "original waistband" and having put on a bit of weight others are not comfortable like they used to be. I NEEDED a new Mabel. Honestly!

For this version I added just 1cm to the centre back and front. The fabric has good stretch, but I need just a bit more room that I used too (funnily though some of my earlier Mabel's still fit OK at the original XL size). Everything else is the same as usual....

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Pattern: "Mabel Skirt" by Colette Patterns

Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance
Modifications: 5cm elastic waistband (added 10cm to the pattern to accommodate for this), 16.5cm added to length, pegged in the bottom by 0.5cm at each seam (so 2cm in total). 1cm added to the CF and CB to accommodate for  winter weight
Fabric:  White on Black Ponti (60% viscose, 35% nylon, 5% elastaine) from Tessuti

B+W Striped Mabel #2

My last Striped Mabel Skirt - refashioned from a 'not-right' Marianne Dress - turned out to be too tight around the hips and butt. I tried to wearing it to work one day but as got as far as the bus stop before I came home to change - sad face!

I found some nice Ponti at Tessuti so snapped it up and set up making a second striped Mable Skirt. This time I added 2cm to the centre front and back of the XL (my last iteration had 1cm added) and it fits well. The fabric does not have a lot of stretch to it so 2cm is definitely the right amount.

The waist elastic size is the same -- in fact I unpicked the 'not-right' Mabel Skirt and re used the elastic.

Back view...

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Pattern: "Mabel Skirt" by Colette Patterns

Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance
Modifications: 5cm elastic waistband (added 10cm to the pattern to accommodate for this), 16.5cm added to length, pegged in the bottom by 0.5cm at each seam (so 2cm in total). 2cm added to the CF and CB to accommodate for less stretch (and winter weight) 
Fabric:  White on Black Ponti (23% viscose, 5% spandex, 72% poly) from Tessuti

When dresses become mediocre Mabels

I've made two Marianne Dresses lately -- neither of which were quite right due to the high neckline and funkiness going on with the sleeves. Rather than just pop the dresses into the charity bag like I usually do I thought I should try and rescue them and upcycle them in to Mabel Skirts.

Like the dress, this fabric looks great in photos; and the garments look great on the hanger. As soon as the fabric hits my body though - blergh! The colours look awful on me...and the skirt is WAY too small so it's not a keeper.

This dress would probably be wearable if the fabric wasn't pure sweatiness - ugh, get off my body. I did drop the neckline a bit, but the stiffness of the fabric made the sleeves look like I was in some 80s band...hello shoulders! As the skirt above was WAY too small I added 1.5cm to the centre fold of the back and front pieces -- 6cm overall. This fabric has hardly any stretch so it's still a bit snug...but wearable if I suck my gut in and think skinny. It's a keeper. For now.

And here's my attempt at rescuing a RTW dress that must've shrunk in the wash (that's my story and I'm sticking to it). It's not bad as a skirt, but the shape is not as pegged as I would like. It's comfy though and I'm still deciding if it will get worn.

So, some success and some fails - my typical sewing story. My overlocker and sewing machine really fought me on these makes...skipped stiches and the like. Sigh.

I'm glad I have these three projects out of the way though as they've been my roadblock to embarking on any new projects...

Moneta/Lady Skater mash-up

I started this toile back in February and finally finished it today - talk about a slow make!  I bought the Moneta Dress pattern when it was first released and sat on it for about two years - mostly put off by the "gathered elastic waistband" which seemed tricky and destined for failure.

In February I decided to give the Moneta bodice a try with the circle skirt from the Lady Skater Dress (that I've made a few times but the bodice is just too small for me). I cut the Moneta bodice in an XL and it was SMALL...like, really really small. Ugh. I had enough fabric to recut the bodice in a 2XL (despite my measurements firmly putting me in the XL camp) so I cut it out last night and sewed up a rough toile today. The dress is unfinished but I have a good idea of how it fits.

Well, it fits so that's great! BUT...the neckline on the front bodice is higher than the back which is fine, but I feel like I'm choking, so I'll lower the front. The armholes are also really high - like right up in my armpit which is kinda uncomfortable so I'm going to lose 1cm from the bottom of the front and back armhole and subsequently will add 1cm to the front and back of the sleeve piece. There some excess fabric under the arms (on the bodice) but I think I'll leave that alone as I don't know how to fix it. I don't like the shape at the hem of the sleeve piece either as it's tricky to overlock so I'm going to copy the shape of the sleeve sides/hem from the Lady Skater as well as the length of the Lady Skater sleeve as I think this will be a little too short when hemmed.

I think it looks "okay" from the back and I don't need to loose any length from the bodice even though it does catch on my bum a bit (big bum problems = don't care). The skirt length is good - it has 1" added to the length of the hem from when I tried to make a Lady Skater.

I've not finished the dress because as it is I won't wear it and it's not 100% comfortable. When I make the real thing I will add a neckband to the neck rather than turning under and stitching as that finish never works for me. I also didn't add elastic to the waist to stop it stretching out as this was a toile, but will do so for the "real deal".

From all the changes I've listed it sounds like this is a total dud, but it's a good experiment and "if" I can implement the changes mentioned above it might become a good TNT pattern.

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Pattern: Moneta Dress by Colette Patterns (bodice) + Lady Skater Dress by Kitschy Koo (skirt)
Size: Moneta Bodice = 2XL + Lady Skater Skirt = 8
Modifications: so many (see above)
Fabric: thin ponti-like fabric from Girl Charlee USA
Changes for next time: so many (see above)

Wintry Mable Skirt

When I bought the fabric for my second Linden Sweaterdress I received a bit of extra fabric for free *happy dance* as it was the end of the roll. There was *just* enough for a Mabel Skirt so that's what I made.

Not much to report on this as I've made so many (though I made the waist elastic too big TWICE so unpicking that was fun...not...and to be honest the third attempt is still not snug enough). Again I cannot be bothered to get all dressed up for blog photos so here it is...on the floor. I've not worn this skirt yet, but it might get a whirl when it's bare legs weather. I actually don't love it for some reason...

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Pattern: "Mabel Skirt" by Colette Patterns

Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance
Modifications: 5cm elastic waistband (added 10cm to the pattern to accommodate for this), 16.5cm added to length, pegged in the bottom by 0.5cm at each seam (so 2cm in total).
Fabric:  Diamonds On Navy from Tessuti - a Grey/Black Italian Stretch Embossed Jacquard Knit Poly/Wool/Elastane
Changes for next time: note to self: 37 1/2" inch of the soft elastic, hem edges on overlocker using the white marker and then 1" overlap.