Colette Patterns Myrtle Dress

Back in 2014 I made a slew of  Colette Patterns Myrtle Dresses trying to get the fit right on me with the main issue being armholes that were too high and too small; and the back neckline would stretch out. I finally got a wearable dress in the end but shipped it off to a charity donation for some inexplicable reason as I really liked it?

When I was rummaging through my stash cupboard recently I rediscovered this light-weight Polyester Elastane from Lincraft (bought back in the good-old-days when they had a bricks and mortar store in Parramatta). I think I purchased it for an Ebony Tee but as luck would have it I had enough to make a dress. I think this fabric is pretty ugly to be honest but it transformed itself into something not-too-bad once sewn into garment. 

I decided to make the bodice of dress, just to see if I was happy with my adjustments from 2014 and to see if it still fit me. I did have a slight mishap with the overlocker but recovered from that, took a deep breathe and moved on. I added 1"of length to bodice and mucked around with the armhole depth a bit more. This is the size XL with an inch added to the bodice. Fits. Happy. 

After a bit of lunchtime and after-work sewing I had the full dress nearly complete - but it sat with the hem undone for quite a few weeks. I wanted to do a rolled hem on the overlocker but resisted as I didn't want to faff around changing my overlocker settings. I'm sure we all know that feeling.

Took a few goes with various elastics to get to where it's comfortable at the waist. I'm glad I added some length to the bodice as other versions have always felt a bit too short. 

After procrastinating for a few weeks I did finally hem this dress. I did do a "proper" hem to start but it was B.A.D (wonky and wobbly - which probably would've been OK if the dress was black as it would've hidden my mess). Fiddled around for ages to get the rolled hem on my overlocker looking good and then had to do it twice as I missed a bit a left a hole. But it's done and I like it...

I have this dress now nicely folded on a shelf in my wardrobe. I'm super worried about the back neckline stretching out like it has before so better to be safe than sorry as I really like this dress! 

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Pattern: Myrtle Dress by Colette Patterns
Size: XL
Modifications: Armholes changed to Size L; and then lowered at the arm pit by 1cm.
Fabric: Polyester Elastaine from Lincraft (the same print I made my very first, too small, Myrtle out of).
Changes for next time: None, though I'd like to try it in a "not" polyester elastaine.

Seamwork Bobby Dress - Toile

I've become a bit more interested in trying some new-to-me patterns. I've not had much luck with Seamwork patterns to date but thought I might give their Bobby Dress a whirl with an idea that perhaps it could be a Frocktails contender for whenever we can have a Frocktails again. 

I found some fabric at my local MyHung - it didn't have much hanger appeal to me in the shop but sewn up I think it looks quite nice. 

To start with I made a toile of the lined bodice - a size 18 Curvy. It was quite low cut (too low cut for my preferences) and I think the bodice needs a bit more length on me. The pattern suggests you either reinforce the V-neck with interfacing or elastic. I used interfacing but the neckline stretched a bit. 

I was lucky to nab some more of this fabric for a Take 2 of the bodice. I raised the v-neckline an inch and instead of stabilising with interfacing I used clear elastic. I used clear elastic on both the outer and lining pieces and it feels to bulky to me - so perhaps I'd used interfacing on the lining and clear elastic on the outer next time?  I also think the armholes are a bit big/too low slung so need to think about that also. 

Overall I'm fairly happy with this dress, but it's only a toile so I don't think I'll wear this version. I added some length to the bodice but think I might remove a bit of length (Goldilocks much?) Next time I will shorten the skirt a bit and I want the armholes at the back to come over a bit more. My elastic also needs to be a smidgen tighter. 

I actually went back to My Hung and bought the last of this fabric that they had. I might use it for another go at this; but I'm not sure. I'm thinking of unpicking the skirt from the bodice so I can re-use it (albeit shorter) and salvaging the elastic also....but I might use a totally different bodice as this is not giving me life. 

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Size: 18 Curvy
Modifications: so many; see above

Fabric: Polyester/Spandex from My Hung in Parramatta. 
Changes for next time: again, so many; see above! 

LB Pullover - tunic

Like many people in Australia (and worldwide) I've been working from home for quite a few weeks now. Or is it months? Who knows - time seems to have stopped making much sense lately.


During that time the weather has gone from warm to coolish as we head towards winter. I've been wearing the same leggings and tops during almost that whole time and am really lacking some comfortable, but not too pyjama-like clothes for "work".


I've not really felt much like sewing as my "office" now takes up the whole space where I usually sew. I hardly sewed at all last year as we lost the space due to our flat flooding so this work from home thing is really cramping my creative outlets.  BUT I looked through my fabric stash the other day and saw this knit fabric bought on our last trip to Tokyo and I thought it would make a nice top or tunic (IG poll said Tunic was the way to go).

I've used the LB Pullover by Paper Theory (again) and added some length to it. Intially I added 15.5" (39cm) to the pattern but I think that was a bit too long so chopped off an inch and sewed a 2.5" hem.


Intially I sewed up the size 20 but it was HUGE (previous vest version was meant to wear over tops so the size 20 was good) so I took it in quite a bit and perhaps it's now a size 16 - 18?

This dress feels comfortable to wear though the fabric is a little itchy. Looking at the photos it still looks a little big but it's for "working from home" so will be fine for that purpose. It's currently in the washing machine (I wash everything after I've made it and before wearing it for the first time) - I might chuck it into the dryer and see what happens to it size-wise.

My overlocker is currently set up behind my work computer on the tiny part of the dining table that is free. I've set up my sewing machine on a litte foldout table I bought when this all started as I wanted a space to write or colour or whatever. Cutting out fabric now happens on the kitchen floor - the only room with currently enough floor space to lay out big lenghts of fabric. This is the new sewing "normal" for now.
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Pattern: LB Pullover by Paper Theory
Size: size 16 - 18 (not quite sure)
Modifications: lengthend by 14.5"
Fabric: Knit of some sort from Tomato in Tokyo
Changes for next time: cut a smaller size (18) and reduce the lenght by another inch.

Dress No. 1 from 100 Acts of Sewing

Here's something you probalby weren't expecting from me! A WOVEN dress! And, I had to trace the pattern! I don't even know who I am anymore.




I got it into my head that I wanted to make the Dress No. 1 from 100 Acts of Sewing but I kept putting it off as the pattern was only availble as a paper copy that I had to order from the USA. Eventually I caved and forked out A LOT of money to have it shipped here. And then I had to trace it TWICE as my muslin was too small across the bust.




For the price I paid I have to say I was expecting...more. The pattern is just a single sheet with the same piece for the front and back (good if you have no boobs, or boobs on your back to even things up). In order to lower the neckline the instructions have you cut into the front of your dress to get your desired neck depth. Hmm....I'd rather do this via the pattern than cutting into the actual, partially-made, dress.

The second muslin turned out OK...but I hate the fabric (it's stiff and crunchy and feels yuck) and the addtion of the fox patch is so twee that it feels like I made a dress for a very large two year old (ie me). The Liberty bias binding is pretty, but the extra folds it has made it hard to handle. And...after I attached the binding under the arms I decided the underarms were too gaping so some surgery happened. I'm going to cut this up to use for bag lining so all is not lost.



Third times the charm as they say. Well, sort of. 

This dress looks pretty (made in fabric from Tomato in Japan) but I didn't find it very comfortable wearing. I'm used to s-t-r-e-t-c-h in my clothes and wearing this dress made me feel like I was in a straight jacket even though it's basically a roomy sack. I think some of the issues may be attributed to the fact that the fabric is very stiff...it would probably be nicer to wear in a soft fabric with lots of drape.





After sewing the chambray version I decided that I really dislike patch pockets. I feel like there's no way for me to attach them without them looking like a craft project. I added pockets into the side seam and I really like them. I stitched the down to the front of the dress to stop them flapping about and getting bunched up.

I wore this dress out last Sunday to the Sydney Spoolettes inagrual Croqs and Frocks event. I won my first game so thought that was a good time to retire from my Croquete career and sit in the club house keeping cool and eating snacks.



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A crazy-difficult-to-sew Ebony Dress

If anyone has ever skied moguls you'll know what I mean when I say that this fabric is the sewing equivalent of that! I've sewn with "textured" fabric before but this was something else. My overlocker did not like it at all and bumped its way over the speed-bump-like fabric...and the sewing machine I had borrowed from my sister-in-law whilst mine was being serviced didn't like it much either.  Looking at the fabric in My Hung I had no idea how...difficult it would be, but I didn't give up and now I have a new, rather badly sewn dress! I guess you call that a win? 

Would you look at that wonky zigzagging! Oh boy!

Yes, this is another Closet Case Patterns"Ebony Tee". I'm still in serious need of winter clothing (we're having a cold snap to see in the end of winter) and this dress is comfortable and cozy.  I've made two other dresses from this pattern recently (not blogged) that have been fails as the fabric hasn't had enough stretch so they've not fitted but this one is a winner. I'm ignoring the wonky zigzagging on the hem/sleeves as the fabric does a good job of hiding it...and unless you look really closely you can't tell things when a bit crazy with my sewing.

I wore this dress out on Saturday night for dinner with the Sydney Spoolettes and I felt great in it (though I did spill caramel sauce all over it but thankfully it's washed right out)!

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Pattern: Closet Case Files "Ebony Tee"
Size: 16
Modifications: 1" full bicep adjustment
Fabric: My Hung Fabrics in Parramatta - 27% Polyester / 68% Viscose  Rayon / 5% Spandex
Changes for next time: none

Peppermint Magazine Pleated Summer Dress + a class

All of a sudden I'm interested in sewing woven dresses (who am I?) After the success of my Papercut Sway Dress I decided it was time to upskill a little so I enrolled in the Intermediate Dress Class at my beloved Sew Make Create. The class takes place over three full Saturdays and in the end you end up with a dress...all overseen by the lovely Pepper pooch.

Real talk. I ended up with a dress that's too big for me BUT I learned a tonne of stuff so I'm pretty happy. The pattern does have a lot of ease but I was nervous about it not fitting so couldn't be talked down from the size I chose. It was a free pattern and the fabric was only $15 (in total) from Cambodia so nothing lost really. Plus Dave funded part of the class as a birthday gift so...

I chose this dress as it had quite a few "new to me things". A hidden button placket, buttonholes (I have even bought myself a buttonhole foot since the class), pleats plus we undertook a Full Bust Adjustment which involved a lot of maths but I could probably do it again on my own. 

I'm proud that I finished the dress and learned a lot in the process. That said, I'm considering now unpicking the skirt from the bodice and adding in an elastic waistband and still wearing the skirt. I'll see how I feel about actually doing that when the time comes though.

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Pattern: Peppermint Magazine Pleated Summer Dress
Size: H
Modifications: 1" FBA plus some changes on the fly to get the skirt & bodice to fit together
Fabric:  cotton chambray bought from the Russian Markets in Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Changes for next time: none - this dress is WAY to involved for me to have a second go around. 

Casual #EbonyTee Dress

After a successful Full Bicep Adjustment on my last #ebonyTee dress I hopped online and ordered some long-coveted ribbed knit fabric from Darn Cheap Fabrics. The fabric arrived within a few days and whilst it was a bit more lightweight than I was expecting it was still pretty perfect for the Ebony, so here we are. I've really been struggling to find dresses/tunics for casual (yet somewhat put-together) wear and this fits the bill perfectly. I wore it out to a picnic today and it was perfect (despite the strong winds blowing my dress up and showing my underthings to everyone)!

Pretty pleased with my stripe matching on the sides. It's NOT quite perfect as my cutting was a bit off so there was some stretching to get it to sit this well. Near enough is good enough I think!

I decided to cut the neckband on the bias as I wanted all the colours of the fabric to be seen - I love the way it looks though do wish I'd cut a slightly wider neckband as I think they look nicer.

I REALLY like this dress but it was only until I sewed the hem that I decided that I liked it. As the fabric is so light it felt VERY long and frumpy (almost like it was getting longer as I sewed it) and I wasn't feeling motivated to finish at all but I forced myself to finish it off last night.  I decided on a 2" hem so it sits above my knees at the front and I think this really helps in making it not look like I'm being swallowed in fabric.

I bought the same fabric in a different colour way - I wasn't sure what I was going to make with it, but not it's definitely becoming another #EbonyTee dress.

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Pattern: Closet Case Files "Ebony Tee"
Size: 16
Modifications:  1" full bicep adjustment
Fabric: Darn Cheap Fabrics -  85% Polyester / 10% Viscose / 5% Elastane
Changes for next time: none  

Big guns need Full Bicep Adjustments!

I have quite literally made an exact replica of the Ebony Tee dress I made last May however this version has nice, comfortable sleeves. I loved that dress - the fabric was LOVELY, and I really loved the shaped too however the sleeves were just too tight so I never, ever wore it. I'd put it on to wear to work and then immediately take it off. Nope.

When I was at the Fabric Store last week I spotted more of this fabric and thought I'd buy 1m and take the sleeves off the old dress and replace them with new, bigger sleeves. Somehow I ended up with 2.5m "just in case" which is lucky as between the overlocking and problematic fabric I could not detach the sleeves.



The only change to this dress was to do a full bicep adjustment. I often find the sleeves on my clothes too tight so I was figuring I should bite the bullet and learn how to do one and I'm so pleased this experiment was successful. I read quite a few different posts/webpages about this adjustment and in the end settled on this one from the Curvy Sewing Collective. After measuring my bicep and the sleeve piece I needed around an extra 1" so this was the perfect method....

And ta-da! Comfortable sleeves. The adjustment has given me an extra inch at the upper arm which tapers to virtually nothing at the wrist. The original sleeve is too tight all over so I'm glad to have more room throughout.

I'm SO HAPPY with this new dress, so happy in fact that I wore it TWO days in a ROW #hearteyes! 

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Pattern: Closet Case Files "Ebony Tee"
Size: 16
Modifications:  1" full bicep adjustment
Fabric: Fabric Store - viscose 7.7.& /lycra 6% /polyester 17%
Changes for next time: none  

A (new) York Pinafore

Wow, it's been a REALLY long time between sewing project and blog posts. I have just NOT been feeling the sewing love recently and despite that I did sew two Mandy Boat Tees that had failed in a spectacular way (here and here) so that put me off sewing even more. One problem is that over the summer my arms seem to have expanded (probably due to overeating and not the humidity) so the sleeves on the Mandy Boat are too tight unless I use some crazy, super stretchy fabric. Hmmm....

However...I had kind of been feeling like perhaps I should be sewing something rather than spending all my free time binge watching Outlander and Scandal but couldn't think of what. I had seen the release of the York Pinafore pattern by Helen's Closet but dismissed as "not for me, not my style" until I heard her talking about it on her podcast...it seemed like a simple sew, in my size range and I had some fabric in the stash that would be perfect for it (a long sold out Cotton/Elastane Stretch Woven Velveteen from Tessuti that I had leftover of from another project). Thus...here we are!

The pattern comes with two options for different types of "patch pockets" but I decided to go sans pockets as I felt it would make the pattern more "streamlined" and also because my sewing is not that neat or straight and dodgy pockets will make the pinafore look homemade in the worst kind of way. I was also jumping right in with my "good fabric" and fitting pockets into a side seam was more than I could bear as it meant basting...ugh ugh. Turns out that was a good decision as I ended up taking in the side seams but 0.75cm each as the cocoon shape was just too much fabric at my hips. I have been thinking about going back and perhaps adding in the kangaroo pocket so watch this space.

Overall this project was a quick and satisfying sew, made even more so by leaving off the pockets. Using bias binding is always super fiddly and slow but it does give a pleasingly neat result that makes me smile smugly whenever I look at it.

I sewed the largest size there was (XXL), and also added an inch to the upper bodice straps to account for a bust size that is bigger than the pattern is drafted for. There are two neckline options and I sewed the more scooped neck version. I ended up taking in the side seams about 0.75cm as it was just too big and I would like to straighten up the seam around the hip area as there's just too much fabric there making me feel bigger than I am. I sewed the longest length available but am going to unpick the hem and take things up about an inch or so.

The VERDICT: Whilst I like the concept of this pinafore what I really hate WITH A PASSION is layering . I hate wearing multiple layers with things riding up and down and me constantly adjusting my clothes. I wore this out to a family do on the weekend and I felt so fat and frumpy. I'm willing to give this another try though once it's shorter and slimmer at the sides; and I'm even thinking of making one in denim that I think would be better to wear in warmer weather - no tights = less layering!

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Pattern: York Pinafore by Helen's Closet

Size: XXL
Modifications: added 1" to the upper bodice straps for a large bust. Took in side seams about 0.75cm.
Fabric: Cotton/Elastane Stretch Woven Velveteen from Tessuti
Changes for next time: sew a smaller size/straighten up the hip; reduce the length. 

Papercut Patterns - Sway Dress

This make is a TOTAL departure from what I usual sew or wear...a dress in woven fabric! Who am I anymore?

I think I've mentioned before that I am feeling a little bored with sewing. I can't quite put my finger on why but it's probably a lot to do with sewing the same thing all the time (simple knit garments) and that my skills are not really progressing - I'm not even sure I've learned anything new in years. I have a bit of a mental block with learning - I think things are hard and that I am not clever enough to work them out. Plus I'm lazy. Blah blah blah...

Anyway - I started thinking that I would like to make a non-knit dress. It would have to be sleeveless as I KNOW that I hate tight things on my arms. I didn't really mind too much if the dress didn't actually fit because I wanted to learn something new (not zipper or buttons new mind you). I settled on the Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns as there was a chance it could fit me (spoiler alert: it does) and it has a full-facing installed using the "burrito method" which has never crossed my sewing path before, along with a v-neck, belt loops and self-fabric belt.

All in all this was a fairly simple sew though I did find getting a nice clean point around the v-neck tricky. I also had a bit of trouble understitching the facing around the neckline so to make sure things don't flap around up there I also top-stitched the neckline down.

I felt that when it came to making the burrito for my facing the instructions were quite....brief. I read that part of the notes about 20 times and just thought WTAF every time. I nearly gave up at that point, but I put out a cry for help on our Sydney Spoolettes facebook page and someone sent me a very useful YouTube link (thank you Evelyn). It was actually not very difficult but it really isn't until you pull the fabric through on itself you see that's worked (I have no idea how it worked, it just did)!

I am also pretty chuffed with my belt loops. I was going to leave them off (lazy) but thought I should add them as a) it's a learning experience and b) they might actually be useful. I found them quite fiddly to make so after a few attempts I made them longer than suggested, stitched them up and cut off the excess (they are still 1cm longer than drafted). The belt was quite easy although Dave turned it inside out for me as I was struggling.

Also, pockets!

So, the fabric! This is from Tessuti and they are selling it for $15/pm as part of their Skylines Sewing Competition. I was looking for a linen for my Sway dress and this came along at just the right time. The fabric is 63% cotton, 16% linen, 20% viscose and 1% elastane - it was nice to sew with and held a press well. It was impossible for me to tell the right side from the wrong side so I didn't even bother with it. I wasn't going to submit my dress to the competition but in the end I'm pretty proud of this make - I think it's well made so why not?

The big question now is, belted or unbelted I know which I prefer)?

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Pattern: Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns
Size: XL
Modifications: none
Fabric:  Skylines - 63% cotton, 16% linen, 20% viscose and 1% elastane from Tessuti.
Changes for next time: none, although I think a more drapey fabric would be better

One Week One Pattern

One Week, One Pattern is an online challenge encouraging makers to wear one pattern for one whole week. You can wear the same garment for the entire week, or if you have multiples of a certain pattern (like I do) you can roll them all out over the course of the week.

I have a few patterns that I've made multiple times (as in, enough times to wear a different one every day for a week). My options were the Mable Skirt, Ebony Tee or Simplicity 1366. 

In the end I went with Simplicity 1366 as I've made both dress and top versions, so it would give me a bit of variety. I also have a jumper and two other dresses not shown here - the week of #OWOP turned out to be SO HOT. Blergh.

Because it was so hot I decided that another t-shirt wouldn't go astray so I sew this striped version during the challenge week. You can see some pulling on the neckband on the right-hand side of the right photo - this is where I pulled the neckband just a little too tight - ugh. I also took the hem down last night as the top was a little short and it'll get more wear at the longer length. 

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Put a bird on it - Simplicity 1336

Firstly, are you as gobsmacked as I am that I found this beautiful fabric at Lincraft? I mean, they do have some nice fabrics from time to time but it's a bit hit and miss. This coupled with how messy they fabric section of their stores can get means I don't go in as often as I used to. I popped into my local store a few weeks ago when I was having my car fixed next door and...jackpot! This fabric is SO pretty and reminds of a Leona Edmiston print.

At first I thought I might make this fabric into another Ebony Tee or even a McCall's 6886 dress but in the end I went with my trusty Simplicity 1366 top lengthened into a dress. The fabric is fairly draprey so I think this is most successful top to dress hack so far. The sleeve heads sit nicely - up until now they've been a bit lumpy bumpy and I guess that is due to fabric choice. 

I'm just not *quite* sure about the length of the dress - it feels like it should be an inch shorter as I think it looks a bit dowdy in this length. I'm thinking about unpicking the hem and lopping of an inch and re-hemming but I just know it won't be as nice and straight as it is nice. Whilst I say I'd like to do this I'm pretty lazy so I really doubt I'll go through with it.

And, the back view! There's less pooling above my butt than normal but again I'm guessing this is down to the fabrics drape.

Attaching the neckline is still the moment in sewing where I hold my breath and hope like hell it all turns out OK. This time it did - phew! I've been using the "jewel neckband" from the Closet Casefiles Ebony Tee (size 20 neckband) as I like that it's wide, ergo, somewhat less fiddly to fold over and attach.

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Pattern: Simplicity 1366
Size: 18
Modifications Dress:  added 17.5" to the length of the top, added 1cm to both the side of the front and back neckline and dropped the front neckline a bit. Shortened the sleeves by 5cm. Took 1cm off the CB fold. 
Fabric: Printed Mercury Jersey Fabric from Lincraft (95% Polyester, 5% Spandex)
Changes for next time: nada