Brooklyn Coat by Tessuti

The Brooklyn Coat pattern was released by Tessuti a few weeks ago. Like the Sydney Coat it's intended to be sewn with a boiled wool, leaving the seams exposed. I saw a sample of the coat in-store before it was released and got to try it in. I really REALLY liked it so as soon as the pattern was released I sewed up my version.

Stupid me disobeyed the fabric guidelines and made this from a wool that does fray - I thought it wouldn't matter (you know, sew it with a triple stitch so it doesn't fray into the seams) but I really think the coat does not look good in this fabric. It needs that "bobliness" of a boiled wool so the stitches sink in to the fabric and the seams sit well but I just couldn't afford to buy the fabric from Tessuti. It's lovely but just way beyond my budget .  I bought this lovely, soft wool from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto so it's a "bit special" but to be honest I wasn't quite sure what I was going to do with it (I had cape plans, but meh...) so I'm not too sad it's turned into something I probably won't wear. I'm just glad it's out of the stash.

Looking at the photos of this coat on me it does look too big, but it's actually not (the fit is intended to be "oversized"). If anything I could do with a smidgen more room across the butt area and perhaps even a bit more at the front so I can overlap it more and really snuggle into it when the weather gets cold. I wonder if I can make the collar larger too?

The pattern has side, patch pockets that I initially sewed on the wrong way as the photo in the pattern instructions booklet is too zoomed in for me to make out what is the top of the pocket (I also found this a problem with some of the photos in the Sydney Jacket). Derp. I'll know better for next time. I also need to move the pockets forward at least 1.5" as they sit too far back for me to comfortably put my hands in. That's an very easy fix. The pattern also has back patch pockets but I've let those off as it's just a bit too "cool" for this old lady.

Close up of the pockets - after I'd spent 90 minutes unpicking the triple stitching and stitched them on the right way. I used the fabric selvedge for the pocket edge (where my hands go in)...but you can see in this photo how the woven wool does not really work for exposed seams of this pattern. I also have no bothered to totally finish the sleeves on the jacket - they are meant to have a cuff on them, but I just couldn't be bothered to be honest as I'm not going to wear this.

...and back view.  Also deciding if the length is too long.

Initially I wasn't going to make this pattern again as I'm not sure of the fit on me but the more I think about it the more I want to try it in a boiled wool before discounting it entirely (I found a nice wool for $30p/m at Pitt Trading).

-------

Pattern: "Brooklyn Coat" by Tessuti
Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance
Modifications: None
Fabric: Wool from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto
Changes for next time: Sew an XL, but perhaps make it shorter! Move the pockets forward, perhaps make the collar bigger and add a bit more width to the front panels and also to the back if I can figure out how to do that

Fabric haul from Kyoto

Dave and I have *just* returned from 2 and  a half weeks in Japan, where we spent the bulk of our time in Kyoto. The beauty of staying put in one place for so long is the chance to revisit places you REALLY liked...such as my beloved Nomura Tailor. I went there about 5 times, making purchases three of those time and just perusing all the goodies the other times. It was...bliss!

There are two Nomura Tailors in Kyoto, one on Shijo Dori (the bigger store with ALL the fabric), and a second smaller store, around the corner in one of the arcades at the end of Nishiki Market (there are two arcades parallel to each other and I cannot remember which one it is in). The smaller stall sells some haberdashery and quilting items.

Needless to say I spent most of my time in the big fabric store...with most of that time up on Level 2 where the knit fabric lives.

I bought this lovely wool (?) for what I hope will become a lovely "coatigan" - B6244. The pattern has a shawl collar that shows the underside of the fabric (the lighter side) and I think (hope) this will work out really well). I hope not to hem the shawl part of the garment, rather use the selvage; or stitch it so I can fray the edges.

Next up is this cozy knit that I see as an Oslo Cardigan. I have no idea of any of the fabric content on my purchases...the tags being in Japanese...but they all feel nice

Nomura Tailor have a few different patterns made up, including the little cape in this photo. I tried it on and it fits (pretty much) so then I set about finding a fabric that I could use to make it. Nomura has HEAPS of wools, mostly in plaids, but I knew matching the plaids would make my head explode, so I went for this lovely blue fabric. I spent about 2 hours choosing this fabric - my head exploding at ALL the choices on offer. After some sign language I ascertain the pattern is from this Japanese pattern book so I purchases that too (hopefully I'll be able to decipher the pattern, otherwise this material might become something else, like a Seamwork Camden Cape).

Initially I had thought this fabric would work for the B6244 coatigan, but it has quite a bit of stretch so I walked out of the shop and left it behind after fondling it for about an hour. I then went back a few days later as I thought the fabric so was nice plus super soft and cosy that it deserved to come and live in Australia with. More agonising ensured about which colour - black, navy blue or grey. That decision took me hours also! I have no idea what this will become yet...hopefully a nice cardigan or coatigan if I can find a good pattern (suggestions welcome).

I bought a similar fabric to this back in February and it became a Linden Sweater which I think is a great way to show off the double sided fabric. This fabric will suffer the same fate...with the polka dots serving as the contrast fabric on the bands.

And last, but by no means least, is 1.5m of this lovely fabric that I found in their remnant bin - the colour combination is olive and mustard. Delish. The remnant bin at Nomura can be the source of hours of happy rummaging...trust me, I know. I see this becoming a Mandy Boat Tee - it has a bit of a "wool" feel to it, so it will be a nice winter top.

I love everything I bought and I'm glad I have visions for some of it straight away. I also loved that with JAL we had 50kg luggage allowance EACH so I could go as crazy at the bank balance would allow with my fabric shopping.

A snuggly Linden Sweatshirt

I bought this lovely, soft double sided fabric during my visit to Nomura Tailor whilst in Kyoto this February.  I was REALLY frugal with my fabric buying during this trip as I didn't have a lot of spending money and we also had a really small luggage allowance (boo to you Cathay Pacific).  I'm happy to report that when we fly to Japan with JAL this coming December we have a 52kg luggage allowance (!!!) and are allowed two suitcases. EACH. One will be filled entirely with fabric (and KitKats) I'm sure!

Japanese fabric (well the stuff I bought) seems to be REALLY narrow. This was only 80cm wide so I bought 3 meters of it..just to make sure that I had enough to make whatever it was that I was going to make from it.

When I got home from Japan the fabric went straight into the stash as I didn't want to sew it up "just yet" in case I fluffed it up. After my first Linden however I began to think, this soft and snuggly fabric would make a lovely Linden and the cuffs would be the perfect, yet subtle way to show off the other side of the fabric.

For this Linden I sized down to the size 16 all over and the fit is much better. I do find the sleeves rather long on the Linden, especially once the cuff is added but I think this adds to the coziness of the top. Perhaps the top could be a little smaller all over but I think it might start too lose it's comfy factor if I go too snug.

Everything went fairly straight forward with this sew (mostly). The neckband went on ok, though I think I stretched the neckline out a bit...luckily not too much and the top is still comfortable to wear.  I'm starting to feel quite confident about attaching neckbands but I don't want to become too cocky as pride does come before a fall and all that.  I did fluff up one of the cuffs however and had to unpick it and reattach which was a nightmare as this fabric is quite fine and didn't like the unpicker at all...

Pattern: Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: none, other than going down a size this time around
Fabric: Mystery fabric from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto, Japan
Changes for next time: none, though I might make the sleeve a few centimeters shorter