Sunday, 11 March 2018

Another Sewaholic Rae Skirt

After experimenting with a few elastics waisted skirts (here and here) I've returned to my OG pattern  - the Sewaholic Rae Skirt (my original version is here).

I like this pattern as it's made up via a number of panels that taper towards the waist so it's less bulky than the more simple method of sewing two big rectangles of fabric together. That said I didn't get the elastic length quite right, and it turns out this non-roll elastic has a lot of roll. I've really stitched the elastic in so it would be A LOT of effort and unpicking to remove it and replace it. I might replace it but I'm worried the fabric might not cope too well with that.

I have no idea why, but this version of the Rae Skirt is quite a bit longer than my first one. Why would that be - everything is exactly the same as last time?

The fabric is an Atelier Brunette rayon/viscose that I swapped some of my fabric for - one of the Sydney Spoolettes is now the owner of some Nani Iro jersey I was never going to use. I love this fabric - it feels so light and floaty to wear and was so easy to sew with. I looked at getting some more in a different colourway but with currency conversions and shipping it was a firm NO from the bank account.


PatternSewaholic Rae Skirt
Size: 16
Modifications:  none.
Atelier Brunette viscose rayon swapped with Tanya (thanks Tanya!)
Changes for next time: none - though use some better elastic!

Saturday, 10 March 2018

Papercut Patterns - Sway Dress

This make is a TOTAL departure from what I usual sew or wear...a dress in woven fabric! Who am I anymore?

I think I've mentioned before that I am feeling a little bored with sewing. I can't quite put my finger on why but it's probably a lot to do with sewing the same thing all the time (simple knit garments) and that my skills are not really progressing - I'm not even sure I've learned anything new in years. I have a bit of a mental block with learning - I think things are hard and that I am not clever enough to work them out. Plus I'm lazy. Blah blah blah...

Anyway - I started thinking that I would like to make a non-knit dress. It would have to be sleeveless as I KNOW that I hate tight things on my arms. I didn't really mind too much if the dress didn't actually fit because I wanted to learn something new (not zipper or buttons new mind you). I settled on the Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns as there was a chance it could fit me (spoiler alert: it does) and it has a full-facing installed using the "burrito method" which has never crossed my sewing path before, along with a v-neck, belt loops and self-fabric belt.

All in all this was a fairly simple sew though I did find getting a nice clean point around the v-neck tricky. I also had a bit of trouble understitching the facing around the neckline so to make sure things don't flap around up there I also top-stitched the neckline down.

I felt that when it came to making the burrito for my facing the instructions were quite....brief. I read that part of the notes about 20 times and just thought WTAF every time. I nearly gave up at that point, but I put out a cry for help on our Sydney Spoolettes facebook page and someone sent me a very useful YouTube link (thank you Evelyn). It was actually not very difficult but it really isn't until you pull the fabric through on itself you see that's worked (I have no idea how it worked, it just did)!

I am also pretty chuffed with my belt loops. I was going to leave them off (lazy) but thought I should add them as a) it's a learning experience and b) they might actually be useful. I found them quite fiddly to make so after a few attempts I made them longer than suggested, stitched them up and cut off the excess (they are still 1cm longer than drafted). The belt was quite easy although Dave turned it inside out for me as I was struggling.

Also, pockets!

So, the fabric! This is from Tessuti and they are selling it for $15/pm as part of their Skylines Sewing Competition. I was looking for a linen for my Sway dress and this came along at just the right time. The fabric is 63% cotton, 16% linen, 20% viscose and 1% elastane - it was nice to sew with and held a press well. It was impossible for me to tell the right side from the wrong side so I didn't even bother with it. I wasn't going to submit my dress to the competition but in the end I'm pretty proud of this make - I think it's well made so why not?

The big question now is, belted or unbelted I know which I prefer)?


Pattern: Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns
Size: XL
Modifications: none
Fabric:  Skylines - 63% cotton, 16% linen, 20% viscose and 1% elastane from Tessuti.
Changes for next time: none, although I think a more drapey fabric would be better

Sunday, 4 March 2018

Made by Rae - Cleo Skirt

I'm continuing my foray into elastic waist woven skirts with the Cleo Skirt by Made by Rae. This skirt has a flat front with an elastic back- I have a few store bought pants with this type of waist and find them quite comfortable. It was actually much easier to install this type of waistband than I thought it was going to be.

The fabric is from My Hung - a cotton that is probably not fluid enough for this skirt. As such I'm find there is just too much fabric going on. I probably could've chosen a smaller size also. I went with the size 2 in the plus size range, but I think a 1 would be more than fine.

I was really excited to learn how to sew this cut-out type of pockets - turns out it's very simple. I would want them deeper however if I were going to make this skirt again. I think I stretched the pockets out of bit though as they don't sit flat like I think they are supposed to.

As I said before the waistband was quite easy to do but there was A LOT of fabric to gather which made things a bit awkward...again, this could be resolved by sewing a smaller size in less stiff fabric.  

I'm glad I made this skirt as I learnt some new things - new to me pocket type, partial elastic waistband, gathers - but I'm not sure the style is for me. I'm just not sure how to wear it - there's A LOT of fabric at the waist so wearing a top over it isn't really an option. I'm not one for wearing tucked tops though I have here just to take a few photos.


PatternCleo Skirt by Made by Rae
Size: 2 plus size range
Modifications:  none
Fabric: cotton from My Hung in Parramatta.
Changes for next time: deeper pocket bags, sew a smaller size