Monday, 20 June 2016

(another) Linden Sweatshirt

I initially saw this fabric on the Tessuti Instagram feed, made up in a Mandy Boat Tee...and I HAD to have it (the fabric and the top). When I fondled the fabric in store it wasn't very stretchy so needless to say when I tried to make my own Mandy Boat Tee the sleeves were SO tight it was unwearable. I'm not sure why I even attempted this as I knew it wouldn't fit. Derp.  I tried to rescue it by adding a gusset under the sleeve but the fabric was too bulky, and a first for me - the overlocker ate a hole in it. Nooooooooooooo!

I was able to reuse the front of the top to make the sleeves of a Linden Sweatshirt and as luck would have it a subsequent revisit to Tessuti nabbed me a 1m remnant of this very same fabric! I was initially looking for something contrasting so it was massive luck that I was able to make a sweatshirt entirely from this amazingly fun fabric.

My previous Linden's (excluding my first wearable toile) have all been in a Size 16 however for this version I went up to a Size 18 to ensure the thing would fit due to the fabrics lack of stretch...and it does...and it's very comfortable. I shortened the sleeves by 1" and added 2" to the hem length.

I decided to go a bit funky with the hem back and do a high-low/split hem situation. I feels this elevates the top from "just a sweatshirt", maybe I could wear it to work?  The hem band was actually very tricky, and despite basting it down it still does not *quite* meet up at the side seams. There is a tutorial on the Grainline website if you're keen to try this yourself.

The neckband is always a "hold your breath" moment for me as it so much can go wrong...normally, things just get stretched out and it's game over for the garment. I'm pleased to report all went well. Before I sewed the neckband on I pinned it to the neck to check the length. I ended up having to add 7" to the length (so had to cut a new neckband) - sort of expected as the fabric has such a small amount of stretch. I also added 1cm to the width of the makes the neckband a bit easier to handle.

....and the back....

So all in all I really love this sweatshirt. The fabric is very cool, it fits well and is comfortable. I did notice something weird with the fabric though - when pulled hard the front and back of the fabric sort of stretches and separates so I'll have to be careful when wearing and washing it.

I have a bit of this fabric left over...enough for the front panel of a Linden, so if I find a nice contrasting fabric there'll be another Linden in future.

Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 18
Modifications: lengthened hem by 2"; sleeves shortened by 1", added 1cm to the width of the neckband (plus 7" in length) and tried the "split hem" variation.
Fabric:  Polyester/Elastane textured printed stretch knit from Tessuti (sold out)
Changes for next time: none.

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