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Thursday, 31 December 2020

Make Nine 2021 (+ 3 more)

I have a lot of sewing ideas floating around in my head so thought I'd do a Make Nine for 2021. 

I have the majority of these patterns but have never sewn them so my Make Nine will focus on new to me patterns (although I also have a bunch on TNTs on my mind also that I want to sew). In 2021 I will endeavour to reach for fabric in my stash before buying new fabrics 😂 and (so far) need fabric for just one of them.

Pona Jacket - Helen's Closet
- I have a nice black linen cotton from Spotlight earmarked for this.

Glebe Pants - Muna & Broad
- these are already cut out in a linen/poly blend from MyHung. Just starting to overlock all of the edges.

Sea Change Top* - Lily Sage
- not sure which fabric for this; but I have a lot in the stash to choose from.

Lodo Dress - True Bias
- I have a blue ponti in the stash; and some scraps of woven "stuff" laying around that can be used for the facings.

Amara Vest - Tessuti
- will use a boiled wool remnant bought from Tessuti.

Nullarbor Cami * - Muna & Broad
- I have something in the stash to test this with AND if it works I have a big Gorman sarong given to me as a gift that I'd like to sew up into this cami.

Kelio Wrap Dress - Named Patterns
- there's got to be something in the stash to toile this.

Bardon Dress° -  Peppermint Magazine & Elbe Textiles
- this will be a shopping trip...oh well, it has to be done!

Ida Clutch - Kylie and the Machine
- I have some leather; and also some denim to first toile this in. 

* will need to buy the pattern
° will need to buy some fabric (oh what a shame)

Ofcourse, the day after coming up with my Make Nine I thought of three more "new things" to tackle in 2021...



Esme Maxi Cardian - Named Patterns 
- I have a fluffy grey knit bought from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto that's been put aside for years for this pattern!

Ninni Cullotes - Named Patterns
- I have a Plissé fabric from Spotlight to try this in...

Unides* 
- these are by Muna & Broad; but I've not yet settled on a pattern, although I have a few knit scraps set aside to try out.

I already know that I want end up sewing all of these - it's easy to get distracted by other projects; or tojust decide you cannot be bothered to proceed with something chosen earlier in the year. Watch this space though!

Friday, 11 December 2020

Wiksten Haori Jacket #2

I had always intended to make a shorter Wiksten Haori Jacket and had cut one out a while ago in this lovely slub-denim from Spotlight. And then it sat on my "to be sewn" shelf. I had been given some cute lining from Catherine and then spent a lot of time thinking about how I wanted the sleeves to look rolled up; as well as how I wanted the pockets to look.

Last week I went out for a work dinner - it was hot, but also a bit cool (ugh, Sydney weather) and I realised I didn't have a light jacket....which is how I came to make this unlined Wiksten Haori Jacket. 

I have made the size L (a size smaller than my first Haori) and changed the pocket style - they are unlined (but the top is reinforced with some iron-on-webbing-stuff from Spotlight). I like the way that sewing the sides of the pocket into the jacket results in a nicer looking finish than I can get with a patch pocket.


As I was sewing this and trying on mid-make I wasn't so sure about it. I was feeling certain it wasn't going to fit but once the neck-band is on (that I halved in width) it's a good fit. I did sew the side seams a little wider in order to fit all the bulk of the pockets etc...but it fits and the more I try it on the more I like it. Like last time I halved the collar width but I decided not to interface it as I didn't want it to be stiffer than the rest of the jacket.

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Pattern: Haori Jacket by Wiksten
Size: L, short-length
Modifications: halved the collar width, changed the pocket style, shortened sleeves 3cm, unlined
Fabric: Slub Denim from Spotlight 
Changes for next time: ?

Peppermint Wrap Skirt becomes a Sew DIY Lela Skirt

More rummaging in the stash cupboard unearthed this lightweight denim/chambray fabric. Not sure why I bought it, or when, but I think it's from Spotlight?

I decided to try the free #peppermintWrapSkirt from Peppermint Magazine designed by In the Folds. I sewed the size "I" which I think is a size or two too big at the hips so it was a bit puffy there. It seemed like too much effort to adjust this (undoing French seams and waistband removal) so I decided to reuse the fabric for another new-to-me skirt pattern. The wrap skirt was VERY long so I had enough fabric (with some tetris) to make into something new.

I was happy though to be able to practise my button holes with the wrap skirt. It had been so long since I did a buttonhole (and I do them so rarely) that I forgot exactly what to do so got Dave to read the machine instructions as my brain was malfunctioning. We got there in the end!


So my wrap skirt got chopped it up to make a toile of the @sewdiypatterns #lelaskirt. I found the curved hem tricky so it's just turned up once, not twice. The front & back aren't cut on the fold as I didn't have enough fabric and for the same reason the waistband is cut against the grain. I top stitched all the seams so it's easier to iron. I probably should've made a smaller size as I think it's a bit poofy at the front...but my measurements said 22. 

I think this will be a good beach/pool skirt but I think it's going to go into the charity bag as I don't love it. 

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Thursday, 3 December 2020

Colette Patterns Myrtle Dress

Back in 2014 I made a slew of  Colette Patterns Myrtle Dresses trying to get the fit right on me with the main issue being armholes that were too high and too small; and the back neckline would stretch out. I finally got a wearable dress in the end but shipped it off to a charity donation for some inexplicable reason as I really liked it?

When I was rummaging through my stash cupboard recently I rediscovered this light-weight Polyester Elastane from Lincraft (bought back in the good-old-days when they had a bricks and mortar store in Parramatta). I think I purchased it for an Ebony Tee but as luck would have it I had enough to make a dress. I think this fabric is pretty ugly to be honest but it transformed itself into something not-too-bad once sewn into garment. 


I decided to make the bodice of dress, just to see if I was happy with my adjustments from 2014 and to see if it still fit me. I did have a slight mishap with the overlocker but recovered from that, took a deep breathe and moved on. I added 1"of length to bodice and mucked around with the armhole depth a bit more. This is the size XL with an inch added to the bodice. Fits. Happy. 


After a bit of lunchtime and after-work sewing I had the full dress nearly complete - but it sat with the hem undone for quite a few weeks. I wanted to do a rolled hem on the overlocker but resisted as I didn't want to faff around changing my overlocker settings. I'm sure we all know that feeling.

Took a few goes with various elastics to get to where it's comfortable at the waist. I'm glad I added some length to the bodice as other versions have always felt a bit too short. 



After procrastinating for a few weeks I did finally hem this dress. I did do a "proper" hem to start but it was B.A.D (wonky and wobbly - which probably would've been OK if the dress was black as it would've hidden my mess). Fiddled around for ages to get the rolled hem on my overlocker looking good and then had to do it twice as I missed a bit a left a hole. But it's done and I like it...


I have this dress now nicely folded on a shelf in my wardrobe. I'm super worried about the back neckline stretching out like it has before so better to be safe than sorry as I really like this dress! 

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PatternMyrtle Dress by Colette Patterns
Size: XL
Modifications: Armholes changed to Size L; and then lowered at the arm pit by 1cm.
Fabric: Polyester Elastaine from Lincraft (the same print I made my very first, too small, Myrtle out of).
Changes for next time: None, though I'd like to try it in a "not" polyester elastaine.

Wednesday, 2 December 2020

Seamwork Bobby Dress - Toile

I've become a bit more interested in trying some new-to-me patterns. I've not had much luck with Seamwork patterns to date but thought I might give their Bobby Dress a whirl with an idea that perhaps it could be a Frocktails contender for whenever we can have a Frocktails again. 

I found some fabric at my local MyHung - it didn't have much hanger appeal to me in the shop but sewn up I think it looks quite nice. 


To start with I made a toile of the lined bodice - a size 18 Curvy. It was quite low cut (too low cut for my preferences) and I think the bodice needs a bit more length on me. The pattern suggests you either reinforce the V-neck with interfacing or elastic. I used interfacing but the neckline stretched a bit. 


I was lucky to nab some more of this fabric for a Take 2 of the bodice. I raised the v-neckline an inch and instead of stabilising with interfacing I used clear elastic. I used clear elastic on both the outer and lining pieces and it feels to bulky to me - so perhaps I'd used interfacing on the lining and clear elastic on the outer next time?  I also think the armholes are a bit big/too low slung so need to think about that also. 


Overall I'm fairly happy with this dress, but it's only a toile so I don't think I'll wear this version. I added some length to the bodice but think I might remove a bit of length (Goldilocks much?) Next time I will shorten the skirt a bit and I want the armholes at the back to come over a bit more. My elastic also needs to be a smidgen tighter. 

I actually went back to My Hung and bought the last of this fabric that they had. I might use it for another go at this; but I'm not sure. I'm thinking of unpicking the skirt from the bodice so I can re-use it (albeit shorter) and salvaging the elastic also....but I might use a totally different bodice as this is not giving me life. 

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Size: 18 Curvy
Modifications: so many; see above
Fabric: Polyester/Spandex from My Hung in Parramatta. 
Changes for next time: again, so many; see above! 

Tuesday, 1 December 2020

Simplicity 1366 x 2

My SewJo has finally started to return...not sure what has bought about this comeback but perhaps it's due to hanging out with sewing friends; or just feeling like I have the mental & physical space at home to finally get a bit creative.

I bought this fabric after seeing it on Maai Designs Instagram page (@maaidesign). I had no idea what viscose spandex crepe felt like but who cares - the print (a Lady McElroy design) is fantastic and it had been so long since I felt quite excited about sewing so...Add. To. Cart! 


I decided to sew Simplicity 1366 as it is a TNT so I knew it would be fit. This was a pretty stressful sew however. I was so worried about messing this up that I jinxed myself. It looks okay from the outside but it's a different story inside. The fabric is so light weight - like sewing with stocking material - I was expecting the fabric to be heavier and it has not turned out as nice as I had imagined. I've not worn this yet...and I'm not sure if I will.



A bit of lunchtime and after work sewing last week resulted in another a new Simplicity 1366. This is a more cropped length for wearing with wide-legged pants and more voluminous skirts. I do have this tee already in black (my very first Simplicity 1366 but God knows where it is though). The fabric is a small cotton/elastane remnant bought from Tessuti quite awhile ago. 

Do you like this necklace? The pendant was made in about 5 seconds by Wendy @sydneyjewelleryschool in a recent wire-working class.


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Size: 18
Modifications:  For the "faces tee" added 7.5cm to the length, added 1cm to both the side of the front and back neckline and dropped the front neckline a bit. Shortened the sleeves by 5cm. For the "black tee" - I think this is the original length, added 1cm to both the side of the front and back neckline and dropped the front neckline a bit. Shortened the sleeves by 10cm. 
Fabric:"faces fabric" viscose spandex crepe from Maai Designs. Black fabric is a cotton/elastane remnant from Tessuti
Changes for next time: none