Wiksten Haori Jacket #2

I had always intended to make a shorter Wiksten Haori Jacket and had cut one out a while ago in this lovely slub-denim from Spotlight. And then it sat on my "to be sewn" shelf. I had been given some cute lining from Catherine and then spent a lot of time thinking about how I wanted the sleeves to look rolled up; as well as how I wanted the pockets to look.

Last week I went out for a work dinner - it was hot, but also a bit cool (ugh, Sydney weather) and I realised I didn't have a light jacket....which is how I came to make this unlined Wiksten Haori Jacket. 

I have made the size L (a size smaller than my first Haori) and changed the pocket style - they are unlined (but the top is reinforced with some iron-on-webbing-stuff from Spotlight). I like the way that sewing the sides of the pocket into the jacket results in a nicer looking finish than I can get with a patch pocket.

As I was sewing this and trying on mid-make I wasn't so sure about it. I was feeling certain it wasn't going to fit but once the neck-band is on (that I halved in width) it's a good fit. I did sew the side seams a little wider in order to fit all the bulk of the pockets etc...but it fits and the more I try it on the more I like it. Like last time I halved the collar width but I decided not to interface it as I didn't want it to be stiffer than the rest of the jacket.

------

Pattern: Haori Jacket by Wiksten
Size: L, short-length
Modifications: halved the collar width, changed the pocket style, shortened sleeves 3cm, unlined
Fabric: Slub Denim from Spotlight 
Changes for next time: ?

Peppermint Wrap Skirt becomes a Sew DIY Lela Skirt

More rummaging in the stash cupboard unearthed this lightweight denim/chambray fabric. Not sure why I bought it, or when, but I think it's from Spotlight?

I decided to try the free #peppermintWrapSkirt from Peppermint Magazine designed by In the Folds. I sewed the size "I" which I think is a size or two too big at the hips so it was a bit puffy there. It seemed like too much effort to adjust this (undoing French seams and waistband removal) so I decided to reuse the fabric for another new-to-me skirt pattern. The wrap skirt was VERY long so I had enough fabric (with some tetris) to make into something new.

I was happy though to be able to practise my button holes with the wrap skirt. It had been so long since I did a buttonhole (and I do them so rarely) that I forgot exactly what to do so got Dave to read the machine instructions as my brain was malfunctioning. We got there in the end!

So my wrap skirt got chopped it up to make a toile of the @sewdiypatterns #lelaskirt. I found the curved hem tricky so it's just turned up once, not twice. The front & back aren't cut on the fold as I didn't have enough fabric and for the same reason the waistband is cut against the grain. I top stitched all the seams so it's easier to iron. I probably should've made a smaller size as I think it's a bit poofy at the front...but my measurements said 22. 

I think this will be a good beach/pool skirt but I think it's going to go into the charity bag as I don't love it. 

-----

Wiksten Haori Jacket

If  you click on the Instagram hashtag #wikstenHaori you'll see nearly 7000 posts! I liked this jacket and wanted to make one. But, it wasn't until I got to try on Catherine's that I decided to make my own (doing this basically confirms it will fit me; Catherine made a middle of the size range so I knew there was room on the pattern size chart for me). I also got to try on Dayle's a few weeks after I'd started mine and it also fitted - a size smaller than mine so perhaps I can size down next time...though that feels scary and feelings of "what if I do all the work and it doesn't actually fit me" are bubbling to the surface.

The Wiksten Haori is a Japanese-inspired jacket that has large pockets, a fold-over collar and is fully lined. The fit is oversized (more or less oversized depending on how big your frame is). It comes in short, mid and long lengths (I have made the mid-length jacket and am about 5ft 7" tall). My denim is from Spotlight (it has a tiny amount of stretch to it but it feels very un-stretchy to me!) and the lining was bought in Phnom Penh when I was in Cambodia in 2018 (IG post on it here; fabric from Watthan Artisans Cambodia). I "think" the lining might be rayon and I was worried about working with it as I've found it tricky (and slippery) in the past. Happy to report it was (mostly) incident free!

I took my time with the lined pockets (which is the first part of the make) BUT I realised AFTER I had made them that they were very narrow compared to what I was seeing IG. Turns out I'd made some sort of error in cutting out the PDF...so that was fixed and the proper, BIG, pockets were done. For me the big pockets are one of the great features of this jacket so it was worth the effort.

Look how smug I am with my big big pockets!

The lining method was very simple (no bagging out) but after I wore this jacket yesterday I noticed that the lining near the pockets was hanging below the main fabric (you can see that there's no turned up hem)...which I don't like. I think I will do some Macgyver-ing and run a line of stitching along the bottom near the hem to try and stop that fabric from dropping. The lining was also "somehow" slightly longer than the main fabric so there is a bit of dodgy sewing with a few tucks here and there to make it fit with the main fabric - lucky the lining is so busy so you don't notice.

I also decided that I didn't want the fold-over collar. I have made two Seamwork Oslo Cardigans (here and here) with that collar style and it drives me NUTS the way it always flaps about and becomes unfolded. I don't know what went wrong here but the collar turned out to be longer than the jacket -- by about 15cms -- so some chopping went on during assembly. I don't have a walking foot either so there are a few tiny tucks in the collar where it didn't quite fit (despite surgery) and I couldn't ease it in fully. Blah, whatever! I also have only interfaced one size of the collar as I didn't want it to be too stiff, but I think I could've done both sides and been fine.



I don't always want to wear this with the sleeves rolled up. At their current length they feel just a bit too long.  The oversized style of the jacket PLUS the very long sleeves make me feel a bit sloppy and smothered in fabric. It would be easy to shorten the sleeves so I'm pondering that. What do you think - lose a couple of inches?

Overall I really like this jacket. I wouldn't mind one in the shorter length and perhaps the next size down to wear with wide-legged pants as the weather heats up. It would probably be in denim (again) as you cannot go wrong with denim!

------
Pattern: Haori Jacket by Wiksten
Size: XL, mid-length
Modifications: halved the collar width

Fabric: Denim from Spotlight & lining is (possibly a Rayon) from Watthan Artisans Cambodia.
Changes for next time: would like to try the shorter length; and perhaps size down and shorten the sleeves.

#ebonyTee - just two more (for now)

Yes, I know! MORE Ebony Tee's...haven't I got anything better to do? Well yes (actually no - so if you have any pattern suggestions please let me know)...but these are different as I've added one inch to the length so I can wear them with my tighter pants...more butt coverage! It's funny how just one inch has made all of the difference to how I perceive my outfits.

The first top is in a polyester elastaine from My Hung in Parramatta and I just LOVE the print! It was quite slinky to sew with but nothing too bad. My overlocker behaved perfectly until it got to the neckdband and then it skipped stitches like a $%$#@$!!! My sewing machine was also skipping stitches all over the place. Honestly.

I've sewn the sleeve as drafted for the "wristlet" length.

NOTE how I'm wearing my new me-made silver clay earrings and necklace!

View of the back - butt area sufficiently covered. I LOVE THIS TOP!

Top number two is sewn in a super slippery polyester elastaine bought from Spotlight ages ago. If you've been with this blog for awhile you'll remember this dress made in the same fabric.

This very "twee" heart fabric is somewhat thinner than the first fabric here and my God - it was slipping and sliding all over the place - very frustrating, especially when putting on the neckband *deep breathes*. My overlocker was still playing up (the fabric isn't really being cut by the knife and just curls up inside the stitches and makes a massive, lumpy mess). I threaded the whole thing, dusted it out, changed the needles and re-threaded it and it seems to be...okay!

Again...acceptable levels of butt coverage.

I'm not sure how long this top will last - the fabric is very delicate and I've already snagged it a few times on a rough fingernail. Sigh.

----

Pattern: Closet Case Files "Ebony Tee"
Size: 16, wristlet sleeves, jewel neckline
Modifications:  added 7.5" to the length. Rolled hem.
Fabric: as above
Changes for next time: none for View B

...just another stripey Mandy Boat Tee

My stripey Spotlight fabric makes a second appearance - this time as a Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee, a pattern I've now made about 30 times!

As with my Marianne Dress the fabric was very nice to sew with, and is nice and comfy to wear given the amount of stretch it has.

I've decided that I'm not keen on the drafted neckline treatment of the Mandy Boat Tee as I can never get the shoulder darts quite right and it looks a bit messy (though it is super easy to sew)! I'm not sure who I am anymore as I voluntarily sewed a neckband on to my top!

-----

Pattern: Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti
Size: One size fits...most
Modifications: lengthened by 9cm (but hemmed at about 2"), the sleeves/arms made bigger for me a sewing class I did at Tessuti.
Fabric: Viscose knit from Spotlight
Changes for next time: might lop off a few cms at the hem, but probably not.

More holiday sewing....

Sewing SIX Gabby Dresses for my holiday and only coming out with two wearable ones means I needed to change tact and pick a new pattern to ensure I have enough clothes for Vietnam in April.

Enter the Marianne Dress, a pattern I've sewn before and like wearing (and that has my shoulders covered which is what I'm going for in my Vietnam wardrobe).

This FANTASTIC fabric is from Spotlight - honestly, they are killing my wallet at the moment. It's a cotton blended with something stretchy (the label didn't say what) and it feels very soft to wear.

The fabric is not overly stretchy so I added a bit to the back fold but probably could've done with a bit more width over the derrière but it will do for the trip. It was pretty easy to sew with -- though a bit curly at times!

I've also whipped up two more Marianne Dresses - no modelled photos as I've not worn them since making them and didn't feel like dressing up for blog photos. Hashtag lazy!

More fabric from Spotlight. This was the end of the role so I think I bought about 2.5m and also got a Mandy Boat Tee from the same fabric. The blue ran a bit into the pink on the first wash, but a second wash seems to have fixed that problem. Things went pear-shaped with my stripe matching which is a mystery as I thought I'd cut everything out perfectly. Oh well! Very comfy to wear and very easy to sew.

And last but not least!  This fabric is from Tessuti and is on sale for $11/pm. It's a lovely quality and was very lovely to sew with -- though the black bands on the neckline/sleeves did get a bit curly. I fought through it though and the result is two thumbs up! The fabric is nice and stretchy and will be comfortable for travelling around in.

So there we have it...my Vietnam holiday wardrobe is complete! I have three Gabby Dresses that I am going to pack and five Marianne Dresses. Other stuff will be coming along with me but this will make up the bulk of what I'll be wearing.

-----
Pattern: Marianne Dress by Christine Haynes
Size: 18
Modifications: as per other makes I added 2" to the neckband length, added 1" to the length, lowered the neckline all the way around by about 1cm
Fabric: as above
Changes for next time: none for the short sleeved version; but when I made the long sleeved version I need to added some width to the lower sleeve piece.

Simplicity 1366 - as a dress

I absolutely LOVE my Simplicity 1366 top - so much that I wore it for three out of four days last week (with washes in between of course). Whenever I love a top I go straight to "can it be lengthened to a dress" which is of course what happened here. Unusually for me though I actually went ahead and made it happen. This all happened last night and I'm wearing the dress today (I sewed til about 9.30pm which I NEVER do as it's bed time but I was excited by this and wanted it DONE)!

I had already lengthened the top by 7.5cm and then I added 13" to that...I had a dress pattern made in a class at Tessuti where you "rub off" a pattern from a favourite garment. I actually just stuck the two patterns together to come up with this. Now that I love what I've made I'll trace it off so I have the dress as a proper pattern piece.

Back view! I think I'd like to add 1" to the length of the dress next time and peg it in a little at the bottom to give it a bit more shape. I think it could be a tad smaller too - but it's very comfortable as it is! Coming into cooler weather I think my next one will be sewn with the sleeves at the regular, longer length.

Dodgy neckline photo - I had to take the photos myself as Dave wasn't around. I think I could've made the neckband a smidge smaller as it's just not sitting 100% flat - but near enough. Even though the fabric didn't have 4-way stretch I couldn't help but run the stripe the other way for the band. The neck is HUGE on this top so it doesn't need to stretch to get over my head.

The fabric is from Spotlight. There's a brand new store at Castle Hill and I'm OBSESSED! They have some great fabric at the moment with a huge variety. Everything is neatly laid out and I feel so inspired when I go there. It's literally my new happy place! Anyway...the fabric is a ribbed knit I think - a rayon/cotton/polyester blend. I'm wearing the dress to work today as it's a cooler day - not a fabric for hot hot weather but good for inbetween days.

-----
Pattern: Simplicity 1366
Size: 18
Modifications:  added 16" to the length, added 1cm to both the side of the front and back neckline and dropped the front neckline a bit. Shortened the sleeves by 5cm.
Fabric: rayon/cotton/polyester blend from Spotlight
Changes for next time: add 1" to length, peg in at the bottom. Perhaps made a little snugger? 

More leather and another Essential Wristlet

I was super chuffed  with my experiment in incorporating leather into my last Essential Wrislet so of course ploughed right ahead with another "Essential Wristlet" by Dog Under My Desk.

The leather for this purse is from a HUGE hide I bought awhile ago from Birdsall Leather - I have LOADS left and it will become a tote at some point in time as well as being incorporated here and there in other small projects. The fabric is some scraps of pineapple line bought from Darn Cheap Fabric about two years ago - the majority of the fabric is sitting in my UFO pile (an unfinished Ginger Skirt that will now be too small for me and stalled on the zipper insertion).

I decided to use the leather to make the strap and ring-holder...the leather is not particularly thick or sturdy so it'll probably stretch out over time (I'll make another strap out of the outer fabic so I can interchange them - I just haven't done it yet).

I also used the leather to make a bigger pocket (for my cash) and a smaller one for a card or two.  The lining fabric is pretty much the last of my Nani Iro haul from my trip to Osaka a few years ago.

Again I've sewn a front pocket as they are super useful. I didn't really follow the instructions for the top zipper - next time I'm going to sew zipper tab for both ends of the zip...

I now have three me-made clutches plus five bought ones...that's probably enough. For now!

Experiments in leather with the "Essential Wristlet"

Spurred on by the raging success of my first, I've made myself another "Essential Wristlet" by Dog Under My Desk - this time experimenting with some leather I had bought in a $5 scrap bag from The Fabric Store. The idea stems from this True Bias tutorial and some purses I've seen made up over on Instagram using the tutorial.

I know black leather on dark blue denim isn't "the best look" (tan leather would look better) but it's what I had on hand to play with, and I was hoping that if the purse worked out I can use it for my Sydney Frocktails clutch (which is coming up this Saturday).

The leather was very soft and didn't add much bulk to the purse, was easy to sew with and easy to turn through the lining. I curved the bottom corners (as that's what the purse in the tutorial is like) which made it easy to have nice bottom corners.

I also added in the second zipper option this time. LOVE it. I'll probably cart my phone, lip goop and train pass in here - three things I access a lot.

I found my Flamingo Purse a tad on the small side so at the advice of my sewing friend Cassiy I increased the size of the purse by printing it at 150%. I also then added a bit more depth to the bottom of the purse to account for the curved corners.

I like having a card slot in my purses so thought I'd made use of my leather and add in three! They are not particularly neat (partly due to the fact that I cut my leather out with scissors which is a bit messy {need to get myself a rotary cutter and metal ruler}), but they do the trick.

And just for a bit more *bling* I added in these cute zipper pulls to the zippers that I picked up from Spotlight in Castle Hill (which is the BEST store just FYI, unlike their Bondi Junction store which is THE WORST). If you have keen eyes you'll notice my zippers are going in two different directions here - whoops! Must pay better attention next time.

I love the way this purse turned out and am already in the process of making a second...leather included!

A Pink Flamingo "Essential Wristlet"

As predicted the Genoa Tote was my gateway sewing drug to all things zippers! I'm not putting zippers in to clothes (yet) but I'm having fun making purses, bags, and cushion covers. I'm quite fond of a clutch with wrist strap. Enter "the Essential Wristlet" by Dog Under My Desk.

The outer fabric is from Spotlight - purchased for another Genoa Tote that I've cut out and not yet made up. The lining is chambray from Tessuti bought for a Sewaholic Rae Skirt that I've never finished. I had enough left over for the lining of the aforementioned Genoa Tote, but the lining of this wristlet.

I made the large size wristlet, but next time I want to increase the size by at least an inch as I carry a lot of stuff with me - mainly my Ventolin requires more space as it's awkwardly shaped. The method for inserting the zipper is quite different, so I'll have to do some maths to then figure out how long the zipper needs to be.

The purse has a pocket for your cards - I did this part twice as my first attempt was a bit sloppy looking. You can also see a little tab over the end of the zipper (on the left hand side) and some magic fandangling happens at the other end to ensure no zipper tape is in the seam allowance, thus reducing bulk.

I did have a big of trouble when it came to putting together the lining, sew in interfacing and outer fabric. Luckily I was able to ask Erin, the pattern designer, for some help - and Dave has good spatial abilities - so I got there in the end. I'm including this picture so I can look back on it for next time and remind myself how I put it all together.

I'm going to be taking this to work with me. I often have to go between buildings and don't want to carry my entire bag with me especially when I doing WHS inspections. This will be useful to put my phone, Ventolin etc in. Pretty and useful. Winning!

Experimental Marianne Dress #2

For my second Marianne Dress I've left off the sleeves in an attempt to make a more summery dress...only problem is that this thick, polyester-esque fabric from Spotlight is not very summery at all. I was busy chatting at the time of purchase so didn't spend enough time concentrating on the feel/drape of the fabric nor the fabric content. This stuff feels like it's made from garbage bags. Oooff.

Fabric choices aside, whilst I think this version is "ok" it's not particulary comfortable. Despite dropping the front neckline a little I still find it too high -- and it's too high up on my shoulders -- so I feel claustrophobic in it. A bit more fiddling needs to be done before it's wearable for me (I'm thinking of copying the neckline of the Casual Lady Dress as that's a better fit on me at the neckline).

I've added an inch to the length which is a good decision as now it hits right on the knees - a good length for me. I finished the arms with a band, but the fabric is too stiff so they stick up. I cannot decide if I need to make the armholes smaller or just find a more floppy fabric (I'm thinking the later).

I really love the stripey fabric and am desperate to find something more drapey...I think I'm going to buy the bullet and buy some from girlcharlee.com as the ponti from them seems to be more...soft. Let's hope the exchange rate is being kind!
-----

Pattern: Marianne Dress by Christine Haynes
Size: 18
Modifications: added 2" to the neckband
Fabric: ponti-like fabric from Spotlight
Changes for next time: have a bit of a play with the neckline -- make it less...suffocating!

Sydney Jacket

The Sydney Jacket is the latest pattern release from Tessuti, a short sleeved, unlined, woolen jacket made from wool that won't fray allowing the seams to go unfinished.  I wasn't going to make this jacket at first (I'm holding out for a sleeveless woolen vest pattern or simple cape pattern to come my way) but when I started seeing versions popping up on Instagram I HAD to have a Sydney Jacket!

The fabric is from Spotlight, although I did go to both Tessuti and The Fabric Store looking for a grey boiled wool to no avail (my fabric hunt cost me over $20 in tolls, $15 in parking and 80kms in driving that day - that's dedication)! The label on the fabric says it's a "Wool Boucle" which cannot be right as isn't that the fabric Coco Chanel makes her trademark jackets from (ie the fabric that frays like crazy)? After some deliberation I decided to wash the fabric in cold water...Spotlight Castle Hill is like an old man's backyard shed and I just felt that this fabric NEEDED to be washed. It shrunk by 20cms which is OK as I actually bought 20cm too much.

I was a little nervous about sewing this pattern as it has a few new techniques for me. The seams are sewn by overlaping the right side onto the right side. In order to make sure I had my seam allowance right I marked every seam with tailors chalk before pinning. I wanted to be extra sure that I had enough fabric on the underside of the seam so that the jacket wouldn't fall apart on me.

I was also a bit nervous about the pockets. It took all my spatial abilities (of which I have few) to figure out which way was "up" for the pockets. Whilst the pattern instructions are good, I think one or two more pictures of how the pattern piece was meant to "fit" wouldn't have gone astray.  Close ups are fine for detail but I need to see the bigger picture also.  Cutting a hole into the fabric once the pocket was ready to become a pocket was a bit nerve-wracking - I was extra careful and went VERY slow to ensure that I didn't cut beyond where I was supposed to.

All in all I'm pretty pleased with my Sydney Jacket. I thought I'd have a million problems trying to sew this, but things went pretty much OK. My machine did have a few dramas - it couldn't seem to be get going and the needle would just go up and down on the same spot. Some percussive maintenance soon sorted that out. I also found out that I'm unable to raise my presser foot to help fit bulky fabric underneath it...I know some machines have this function, but mine annoyingly does not which is surprising as it's a quilting machine.

For this version of the jacket I've sewn an XL. After wearing it for a week I think it is too big and next time I'll try an L. Last night I washed my jacket in hot water and chucked it in the drier which was made it a tad smaller, but really only succeeded in making it shorter and making the short sleeves even shorter. Now that I've sewn the jacket once and know which pattern pieces belong to the sleeve (the pattern pieces are a bit mind-bending) I'm going to lengthen the sleeves to at least below elbow if my fabric allows. Whilst the jacket is "warm-ish" I want my sleeves longer...Sydney winter isn't freezing by any means but I do want longer sleeves.

Pattern: "Sydney Jacket" by Tessuti
Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance.
Modifications: None.
Fabric: Mystery wool(ish) fabric from Spotlight
 Changes for next time: Sew an XL and make the sleeves longer!

"Our Fave Top" is now my fave top!

"Our Fave Top" is a free t-shirt pattern from my beloved Tessuti. There's not much too it - just two pattern pieces and about an hour of sewing. I love it!

I downloaded this pattern when I VERY first started sewing so it's been sitting there, along with this crinkly knit fabric from Spotlight, for about 18 months. Not sure why I didn't make it up sooner - but now that I have this toile done I already have another cut out and ready to go.

Before I cut out the pattern I added 1cm to each sleeve piece which I continued with under the arm and then tapered off around the bust. I knew I'd need this as the sleeves on the Mandy Boat Tee are too small without this adjustment so I figured it'd be the same situation with this top. The sleeves "just fit" now but would be more comfortable in a fabric that has four-way stretch, which this does not so it's a bit snug "around" the arm, but up and down it's fine. If you have chunky upper arms I suggest that this alteration is probably a necessity...

I love how simple it is to do the neck on this top (and the Mandy Boat Tee). Just turn each piece under, stitch it down and then sew the back to the front. I overlock the neck hem and then turn it under and stick it down using wondertape...it's cheating, but it's SO easy! Things are then neatened up with a little dart along the side of the neck to hide where the front and back join. The sleeves have a cuff as I can't help myself and the hem is finished with the rolled hem function on my overlocker - which was PERFECT for this crinkly fabric.

Pattern: "Our Fave Top" by Tessuti
Size: One size fits...most
Modifications: added 1cm to each sleeve piece which continued under the arm and tapered off to zero at the bust
Fabric: mystery crinkly knit from Spotlight
Changes for next time: none as long as my fabric has four way stretch to make the arms a bit more comfortable