More Linden Sweaterdress success!

As soon as I finished my last, and successful, Linden Sweaterdress I raced into Tessuti to buy some more fabric for another. The fabric is the same as before, but in a different colourway. It really is beautiful.

Source: Tessuti

I really like how cosy the wool-blend is without being too hot or scratchy and this particular fabric works really well with this pattern. It has a good amount of drape and the perfect amount of stretch to result in a really comfortable, and nice-looking dress.

There is not much to say about this dress as it is exactly the same as the last one - I didn't change anything and it's worked really well. I made it last Saturday (took the majority of the day including cutting out) and then wore it on Sunday to an all-day weaving workshop I attended. I was pretty comfortable, felt suitably warm in the cold community hall and even got a few compliments.

I think now that I have two of these dresses that is enough for this winter. Although they fit really well and are an easy sew I don't want to get into the trap of sewing just for the sake it -- hence my foray into other crafts like tapestry weaving and polymer jewellery. I like to have something crafty to do at home so I'm not just blobbing out in front of the TV but I feel like I do have enough clothes so sewing any more at this point would be unnecessary and create clutter in my wardrobe (which in turn creates anxiety). I'm not saying I'm giving up sewing -- just that I think I have enough "stuff" for now.

That said (ha!) I have enough of this material left over for a Mabel Skirt -- which would be nice winter garment I think.
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Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: lengthened hem by 9"; sleeves shortened by 1", added 1cm to the width of the neckband plus 3" in length
Fabric:  Diamonds On Navy from Tessuti - a Grey/Black Italian Stretch Embossed Jacquard Knit Poly/Wool/Elastane
Changes for next time: nothing - it's PERFECT!

Linden Sweaterdress - sucess!

Huzzah *high fives self*!

My second foray into the land of the Linden Sweaterdress has been an unreserved success. If I sound pretty happy/smug it's becuase I am! Rarely does a sewing project turn out perfectly for me and this is one of the times where it's all worked out.  Sewing went smoothly (even the neckband went on with no troubles) and it's resulted in something that is exaclty what I wanted. Plus, it's pretty comfortable too (note: nothing is every really 100% comfortable on me as I have some nerve damage in my shoulder due to over 20 years working at a computer -- so "pretty comfortabe" is as good as it gets)!

After my toile, I decided to downsize to a size 16 all over. I had considered grading out to a size 18 at the hips/waist but in the end I thought I should just reduce the size overall...this reduced things quite consdierably, but the dress is still looseish and it would've been a mistake to make it any bigger.

I also chopped 1" off the length of the dress which again I think was a good move. This the sweater pattern was lenghted by 9" to make it to a dress length. For the record I'm 172cm tall - and 9" extra was plenty.

These photos are pretty bad - again it's winter in Sydney and it was very dark and gloomy when I quickly took these photos before work. Below is a picture from the Tessuti website showing my lovely, cosy, snuggly fabric.

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Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: lengthened hem by 9"; sleeves shortened by 1", added 1cm to the width of the neckband plus 3" in length
Fabric:  Diamonds On Grey from Tessuti - a Grey/Black Italian Stretch Embossed Jacquard Knit Poly/Wool/Elastane
Changes for next time: nothing - it's PERFECT!

(another) Linden Sweatshirt

I initially saw this fabric on the Tessuti Instagram feed, made up in a Mandy Boat Tee...and I HAD to have it (the fabric and the top). When I fondled the fabric in store it wasn't very stretchy so needless to say when I tried to make my own Mandy Boat Tee the sleeves were SO tight it was unwearable. I'm not sure why I even attempted this as I knew it wouldn't fit. Derp.  I tried to rescue it by adding a gusset under the sleeve but the fabric was too bulky, and a first for me - the overlocker ate a hole in it. Nooooooooooooo!

I was able to reuse the front of the top to make the sleeves of a Linden Sweatshirt and as luck would have it a subsequent revisit to Tessuti nabbed me a 1m remnant of this very same fabric! I was initially looking for something contrasting so it was massive luck that I was able to make a sweatshirt entirely from this amazingly fun fabric.

My previous Linden's (excluding my first wearable toile) have all been in a Size 16 however for this version I went up to a Size 18 to ensure the thing would fit due to the fabrics lack of stretch...and it does...and it's very comfortable. I shortened the sleeves by 1" and added 2" to the hem length.

I decided to go a bit funky with the hem back and do a high-low/split hem situation. I feels this elevates the top from "just a sweatshirt"...like, maybe I could wear it to work?  The hem band was actually very tricky, and despite basting it down it still does not *quite* meet up at the side seams. There is a tutorial on the Grainline website if you're keen to try this yourself.

The neckband is always a "hold your breath" moment for me as it so much can go wrong...normally, things just get stretched out and it's game over for the garment. I'm pleased to report all went well. Before I sewed the neckband on I pinned it to the neck to check the length. I ended up having to add 7" to the length (so had to cut a new neckband) - sort of expected as the fabric has such a small amount of stretch. I also added 1cm to the width of the fabric...it makes the neckband a bit easier to handle.

....and the back....

So all in all I really love this sweatshirt. The fabric is very cool, it fits well and is comfortable. I did notice something weird with the fabric though - when pulled hard the front and back of the fabric sort of stretches and separates so I'll have to be careful when wearing and washing it.

I have a bit of this fabric left over...enough for the front panel of a Linden, so if I find a nice contrasting fabric there'll be another Linden in future.
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Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 18
Modifications: lengthened hem by 2"; sleeves shortened by 1", added 1cm to the width of the neckband (plus 7" in length) and tried the "split hem" variation.
Fabric:  Polyester/Elastane textured printed stretch knit from Tessuti (sold out)
Changes for next time: none.

Grey Linden Sweater

Yes yes, another Linden! I wasn't 100% happy with my last Linden so I wanted to make another one so I have options for what to pack on my upcoming holiday to Japan.

I really like this make, well as much I ever like anything I make. This time I removed all the additional length I had added to previous versions (which was about 5cm) and added back 3cm to the length. I also removed 1" from the sleeve length. I think both of these small changes have worked out quite well - the sleeves are a much more normal length now!

The fabric is from The Remnant Warehouse - somewhere I don't go very often as it's a bit of a schlep from my house.  It's a poly/viscose/elastane knit that feels a little bit like wool so I thought it would be warmer than the butterfly ponti Linden for Japan.  The price was great at $12/pm - bargain!  The white print on the fabric feels like puffy paint and is raised up off the material. I had to iron this with a pressing cloth (translation: a chux cloth) as otherwise the iron would've melted my fabric! I also sewed in all my overlocking tails so I'm getting much more neat with my sewing - go me.

I got a bit lazy with the sleeve band and didn't want to add it "in the round" after I'd sewn up the sleeves as it's a bit of pain and things do tend to get a bit stretched out of shape. This time I sewed them onto the end of the sleeves before I sewed the sleeves up. I think it's worked out fine, but I can feel the exposed seam on the inside of wrist (where as with the other method the seams are all nicely sandwiched between the two pieces of material).

After extolling the virtues of the Linden neckband in my last post I had a bit of trouble with this one. It turned out it was too short for the sweater (no idea why as the fabric is pretty stretchy) and I had to unpick my overlocking (or the 3/4 of this that I had done) - there goes a good 90 minutes of my life I'll never get back. I then recut a longer neckband (added about 3cm) but I think it could be smidge tighter - as evidenced by it lifting up on the shoulder. I also added 1cm to the width of the neckband just so I had a bit more width to play with.

...and the view from the back...sufficient butt coverage I think...

The Linden is such a great pattern and the possibilities from changing it up each time are endless. I could've had contrasting sleeve/neck/hem bands this time, but also really wanted a sweater that was 100% the same all over. I'd like to go a bit fancy next time and use some lace on the front panel somehow.

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Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: lengthened by 3cm; sleeves shortened by 2.5cm, different method of attaching sleeve bands
Fabric: Knit from The Remnant Warehouse
Changes for next time: none.

Butterfly Ponti Linden Sweatshirt

I've never been one to sew anything for a holiday, let alone consider wearing "me-made" whilst gallivanting across the globe. So this sweater is a bit of a first for me - sewn specifically with my upcoming Japanese Christmas holiday in mind.  I gave myself a lot of time to make this as I never understand people who want to sew a complete holiday wardrboe 3 days before they're due to fly out. Too. Much. Stress!

Now that it's finished I'm not sure I'm going to take it...but, that's not the point.

The front panel of this Linden Sweatshirt is sewn with the leftover piece of butterfly ponti from my recent Mable Skirt of doom - I'm glad I had a decent remnant leftover as the fabric is just so pretty. The rest of the sweatshirt (or jumper as we say here Down Under) is simple black ponti from Tessuti. Something I pretty much always have in the stash.

The last time I sewed the Linden I added 1" to the length as I felt it was a bit short for me to wear with slim jeans. This time I added another inch as I felt it still needed a bit of length...now I kinda think it's a bit long. Opinions welcome!

...and from the back. Much butt coverage, but I'm not 100% sure it's the right length (hence my uncertainty if it'll get a spot in the suitcase for the Japan trip).

The sleeves on the Linden are REALLY long...like Gorilla-arm long. I had meant to remove a bit of the length but forgot in my haste to get sewing (d'oh) so I'll need to be careful that my sleeves aren't dragging in my ramen. The overly long sleeves makes this jumper feel a bit...sloppy for me.

I'm pretty pleased with the neckband on this make - though it's not quite centered at the back (what I can't see can't hurt me, right)? I'm always anxious sewing on a neckband, especially "in the round", but I find the drafted length of the Linden neckband to be perfect. Just tight enough to pull the wide neck in, but not so tight that it feels like you're stretching the bejesus out of it whilst sewing it on. I haven't top-stitched the neckband down as after a good iron it's staying put. I'll throw this into the wash and see if that's still the case.

...and that's all she wrote folks.

Pattern: "Linden Sweatshirt" by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: lengthened by 2" or 5cm
Fabric: Ponti (again) from Tessuti (again)
Changes for next time:SHORTEN THE SLEEVES YOU NUFTY!

A snuggly Linden Sweatshirt

I bought this lovely, soft double sided fabric during my visit to Nomura Tailor whilst in Kyoto this February.  I was REALLY frugal with my fabric buying during this trip as I didn't have a lot of spending money and we also had a really small luggage allowance (boo to you Cathay Pacific).  I'm happy to report that when we fly to Japan with JAL this coming December we have a 52kg luggage allowance (!!!) and are allowed two suitcases. EACH. One will be filled entirely with fabric (and KitKats) I'm sure!

Japanese fabric (well the stuff I bought) seems to be REALLY narrow. This was only 80cm wide so I bought 3 meters of it..just to make sure that I had enough to make whatever it was that I was going to make from it.

When I got home from Japan the fabric went straight into the stash as I didn't want to sew it up "just yet" in case I fluffed it up. After my first Linden however I began to think, this soft and snuggly fabric would make a lovely Linden and the cuffs would be the perfect, yet subtle way to show off the other side of the fabric.

For this Linden I sized down to the size 16 all over and the fit is much better. I do find the sleeves rather long on the Linden, especially once the cuff is added but I think this adds to the coziness of the top. Perhaps the top could be a little smaller all over but I think it might start too lose it's comfy factor if I go too snug.

Everything went fairly straight forward with this sew (mostly). The neckband went on ok, though I think I stretched the neckline out a bit...luckily not too much and the top is still comfortable to wear.  I'm starting to feel quite confident about attaching neckbands but I don't want to become too cocky as pride does come before a fall and all that.  I did fluff up one of the cuffs however and had to unpick it and reattach which was a nightmare as this fabric is quite fine and didn't like the unpicker at all...

Pattern: Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studios
Size: 16
Modifications: none, other than going down a size this time around
Fabric: Mystery fabric from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto, Japan
Changes for next time: none, though I might make the sleeve a few centimeters shorter

Ponti Linden Sweatshirt and a neckband WIN!

I'm not sure when my desire to sew the Linden Sweatshirt actually started.  I sort of never really thought about the pattern and then all of a sudden I HAD to buy it and sew it up that very weekend. I'm more of a "buy the pattern and sit on it for ever and probably never sew it" kinda gal so I'm quite impressed with myself.

This Linden is my "wearable muslin" though I don't actually have anything in my wardrobe to wear it with other than tracksuit bottoms for around the house. All my jeans/jeggings are a bit too tight for a jumper that doesn't cover my butt so I'm trying it here with a skirt and clogs...of course.  Next time I make this I'll be lengthening the body of the jumper so that I can wear it with my jeans/jeggings and feel comfortable.

Now...I've never sewn a raglan sleeve before and I'm super happy at how EASY it was. The instructions of this pattern are very good, and very easily to follow so that didn't hurt.

My struggle with neckbands is well documented on this here blog so I'm VERY pleased to report how EASY this neckband was to attach. It is pretty much perfect in my eyes...ummm, except for I sewed it on backwards the first time around. I was tempted to leave it as I'm lazy and because unpicking overlocking is not fun...but I'm glad I took the time to unpick it and have another go. The neckband looks pretty good...but nowhere near as awesome as my first one.

I'd read that this pattern runs a tad large so I was fairly sure the size 18 would fit me...which it did easily. Next time I'll go down a size as I did (and still do I think) have A LOT of extra fabric on the sleeves and under the arms which I remedied this time by sewing bigger seam allowances. Next time I'd like the sleeves to be more slim as I feel a bit swamped by then.  The sleeves are also uneven as initially they were too long and I obviously didn't do a very good job when shortening them.

The Linden is made 100% from Ponti. The blue leopard print is from fabric.com and is left over from my last project and the black is from Tessuti- bought for pants, but it ended up as a jumper instead. I think jumper works in Ponti, though perhaps it's a little too "structured"?

Pattern: Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studios
Size: 18
Modifications: sewed larger seam allowances on sleeves and side seams.
Fabric: Ponti from Fabric.com and Tessuti
Changes for next time: sew a size 16, shorten sleeves and lengthen bodice about 5cm

Pink Polkadot #tinyPocketTank

I know, I know...it's another Grainline Tiny Pocket(less) Tank. I think I was at a loose end as to what to sew next so I grabbed this cheap, spotty cotton (?) from my stash cupboard and started another tank top just so I'd have something to sew whilst I contemplated "what's next".

I had no issues in the construction of this version. I think I've mastered the basics of bust darts, using bias binding to finish the neck/arms as well as doing french seams. I've finally found a method of hemming that does not involve bias binding so that's some good progress for me. 

All of that aside, there was something very wrong happening in the bust/dart area of this tank. It's probably difficult to see from the photos but the bust darts/front bodice just weren't sitting quite right and the top has some crazy wrinkles above my bust. I'm not sure what the problem is? Whilst there is a similar "issue" with my floral #tinyPocketTank it's not quite as noticeable as the fabric is softer and the busier pattern hides it.

I've decided to pop this tank into the charity bag. I'm not loving the feel of the fabric and the crazy bust fitting issue drives me bonkers whenever I put the top on. I'm constantly adjusting it and driving myself nuts. It was all good practice, but sadly this top is not a keeper.

If you've got any ideas what my fit issue is here please drop me a note in the comments. I'm seriously stumped. Is the top too big or too small? Are the darts in the wrong spot or perhaps too long...or too short? Have I perhaps lost my mind?

Grainline "tiny pocket tank" #2 - we have a winner!

After a somewhat successful (but not really wearable) first attempt at the Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank I think we finally have a winner with my second attempt *happy dance*.

As my first Tank was WAY too low at the front I added a piece to the pattern to make it much less...indecent. I'm so pleased that this worked. When you're first learning to sew everything seems to be a matter of cross your fingers and hope for the best.

After battling with the slinky fabric in my first Tank I decided this time around I wanted something really easy to sew with. I found this pretty Cotton Voile (no idea what that actually is) at Lincraft and whilst I don't think it was cheap I only needed 1m of it so no big deal. As I was making the biggest size of this pattern I had some Tetris moments trying to get everything to fit on the amount of fabric I bought...it only it had been a fraction wider!

I used bias binding for the neck and arm holes but this time I actually hemmed the top "the proper way". It's a bit wavy but if I don't tell you that you'd never know, so shhhhhh.

I got some tips from my Twitter sewing friends (plus this Grainline tutorial also) on hemming. Basically if I sew a line of stitching around the hem and use it as a guide for turning up the hem then all should be OK. And it pretty much was. Hooray!



I'm pleased to report that the top passes my "can I wrestle someone to the ground" test. I can move my arms in it which is my Number 1 peeve in clothing. It's not tight across the back at all which shall not impede my eating adventures. Woot!

I've not yet worn this top out of the house, but it's hanging there ready to go. I'm thinking "maybe" I'll wear it to my first Sydney Sewist Meetup that is happening soon...or maybe not.

I really like this pattern. I think it's a good option for beginners like me as it's quite simple and the instructions are pretty easy to follow. I like it so much that I've already got another top cut out plus a version I'm trying to extend into a Tank Dress. Wish me luck!

Grainline "tiny pocket tank" sans pocket!

On my inaugural visit to The Fabric Cave I found barely a meter of this lovely lavender and cream "mystery fabric"...that's it in the middle there. A better sewist than me will be able to identify this - but all I know is that it is NOT cotton and it's NOT stretchy. It's quite slinky and there's nothing "natural" feeling about it - polyester perhaps?

I bought a PDF copy of Grainline Studios Tiny Pocket Tank when there was as a sale right before X-mas and when I saw this fabric I thought they'd go well together. I do love PDF patterns. I find them less intimating than the old school type of patterns, mainly as I can reprint them easily if I make an error on sizing.

I was actually REALLY worried about sewing with this fabric as it quite slippery. Ergo, I made good use of the slowing speed function on my machine - I LOVE this. I dialed things right down to tortoise speed and slow and steady she went! I am pleased to say that the actual sewing of the fabric went super smoothly....even the darts.

Funnily enough the hardest part about the whole process was ironing the fabric, laying it out and cutting. I am SURE that the fabric slinked around so much that the top is lopsided.

The fabric frayed WAY more than I was thought it would. I'm not quite sure what I was expecting actually but at one stage I thought the whole top was going to end up as a frayed ball of fluff on the floor. I've zigzagged all the seam edges - not the prettiest but it does the job. I also got to practice more bust darts AND bias binding finishes. I'm getting pretty good at these two things now.

When I tried the top on for the first time it was pretty obvious that it was going to be "too rude" to wear out of the house.  The front was cut so low that you could see my bra and ALL my cleavage. I know this is "the look" for "young people" these days but not for me.

So I did the logical thing and took it up at the shoulders until the front covered my girls. Pity I didn't think that raising the shoulder seams would mean that the bust darts now sit under my armpits. The top is also not that comfortable under my arms either. Derp.

Whilst sewing this top I also came to the realization that I REALLY need to learn how to hem garments without bias tape. I was afraid if I attempted a regular hem on this top I'd total botch it as it was hard to iron the hem into place. Bias binding is great but not for this as it's made the hem SUPER stiff and it sticks out like I've threaded a hula hoop through the hem. Double Derp.

So all in all a good practice effort but a waste of some pretty fabric. It only cost me $6 so I'm not too sad BUT I would LOVE for someone to teach me how to hem. Anyone?