Wiksten Haori Jacket

If  you click on the Instagram hashtag #wikstenHaori you'll see nearly 7000 posts! I liked this jacket and wanted to make one. But, it wasn't until I got to try on Catherine's that I decided to make my own (doing this basically confirms it will fit me; Catherine made a middle of the size range so I knew there was room on the pattern size chart for me). I also got to try on Dayle's a few weeks after I'd started mine and it also fitted - a size smaller than mine so perhaps I can size down next time...though that feels scary and feelings of "what if I do all the work and it doesn't actually fit me" are bubbling to the surface.

The Wiksten Haori is a Japanese-inspired jacket that has large pockets, a fold-over collar and is fully lined. The fit is oversized (more or less oversized depending on how big your frame is). It comes in short, mid and long lengths (I have made the mid-length jacket and am about 5ft 7" tall). My denim is from Spotlight (it has a tiny amount of stretch to it but it feels very un-stretchy to me!) and the lining was bought in Phnom Penh when I was in Cambodia in 2018 (IG post on it here; fabric from Watthan Artisans Cambodia). I "think" the lining might be rayon and I was worried about working with it as I've found it tricky (and slippery) in the past. Happy to report it was (mostly) incident free!

I took my time with the lined pockets (which is the first part of the make) BUT I realised AFTER I had made them that they were very narrow compared to what I was seeing IG. Turns out I'd made some sort of error in cutting out the PDF...so that was fixed and the proper, BIG, pockets were done. For me the big pockets are one of the great features of this jacket so it was worth the effort.

Look how smug I am with my big big pockets!

The lining method was very simple (no bagging out) but after I wore this jacket yesterday I noticed that the lining near the pockets was hanging below the main fabric (you can see that there's no turned up hem)...which I don't like. I think I will do some Macgyver-ing and run a line of stitching along the bottom near the hem to try and stop that fabric from dropping. The lining was also "somehow" slightly longer than the main fabric so there is a bit of dodgy sewing with a few tucks here and there to make it fit with the main fabric - lucky the lining is so busy so you don't notice.

I also decided that I didn't want the fold-over collar. I have made two Seamwork Oslo Cardigans (here and here) with that collar style and it drives me NUTS the way it always flaps about and becomes unfolded. I don't know what went wrong here but the collar turned out to be longer than the jacket -- by about 15cms -- so some chopping went on during assembly. I don't have a walking foot either so there are a few tiny tucks in the collar where it didn't quite fit (despite surgery) and I couldn't ease it in fully. Blah, whatever! I also have only interfaced one size of the collar as I didn't want it to be too stiff, but I think I could've done both sides and been fine.



I don't always want to wear this with the sleeves rolled up. At their current length they feel just a bit too long.  The oversized style of the jacket PLUS the very long sleeves make me feel a bit sloppy and smothered in fabric. It would be easy to shorten the sleeves so I'm pondering that. What do you think - lose a couple of inches?

Overall I really like this jacket. I wouldn't mind one in the shorter length and perhaps the next size down to wear with wide-legged pants as the weather heats up. It would probably be in denim (again) as you cannot go wrong with denim!

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Pattern: Haori Jacket by Wiksten
Size: XL, mid-length
Modifications: halved the collar width

Fabric: Denim from Spotlight & lining is (possibly a Rayon) from Watthan Artisans Cambodia.
Changes for next time: would like to try the shorter length; and perhaps size down and shorten the sleeves.

Kimono class at Sew Make Create

I made this kimono is a class at Sew Make Create - the class ran for 6 hours over two Saturday's and I'm super happy that I actually finished it (with a bit of sewing in between the two classes). I wanted to take this class so that I had some hand holding sewing a fabric that has gotten the better of me in the past...rayon!

The pattern is essentially a bunch of rectangles joined together with a lot of French Seams thrown in. The pattern is drafted by the sewing teacher, Angie, and comes with an order of construction but no step-by-step instructions SO if I'm going to make another Kimono (which I am) I'll need to buy a pattern as I'm already forgetting how this got put together. I'm thinking the Papercut Kochi Kimono as it's pretty similar in shape to this one.

The fabric is a rayon that I bought from the markets in Ho Chi Minh last year. I bought it (along with another piece) as it was pretty but with no idea what I'd do with it (especially as I really do not ever sew with woven fabric). When I tried the shop sample on in Sew Make Create I knew that this soft, floaty rayon would be perfect for a kimono.

The fabric was actually fairly easy to sew with it (which I wasn't expecting) - it held a press REALLY well which made things easier. It's not as stable as cotton so it was a bit fiddly in places but I didn't really struggle as much as I thought I would. The main problem I had with it was when cutting out - it's fairly fluid and moves around so I guess it's fabric that use for a more loose, flowy garment where it does not really matter too much if things are a bit wonky when you cut them out.

I'm really happy with my finished Kimono (so happy that I wore it straight away and got Melissa and Pepper from Sew Make Create to take some photos for me)! One of the big reasons I decided to sew the Kimono in this fabric is that I thought it would make a GREAT layering piece for my trip to Cambodia next month...it will definitely be coming in my suitcase with me.

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Sydney Jacket #2 (aka my Jedi Robe)

My second Sydney Jacket has come about as I was tagging along with Dave on one of his water polo trips to Canberra last weekend and was joining a sewing day held by the Canberra Spoolettes (aka Canberra Sewing Crew). I was happy to take my sewing machine, but not my overlocker as that was just too much "stuff" to lug around.

I had this light wool in the stash and there was just enough for a Sydney Jacket (no overlocking or seam finishing required) -- hence the idea for this garment was born. Dave thinks the colour of the wool makes it look like I've made a Jedi Robe. Pffft - Jedi's are not this stylish!

Like my first Sydney Jacket I sewed the size XL. I had thought my first jacket was too big, but this one fits OK (I'm fatter this year than last but not that much fatter I'm sure).

This is a very simple sew, but as I was sewing with a group of 20 other people I was distracted by the conversation and meeting new people and fluffed things up at the very first step! The very first thing I did was to cut the pocket hole in the jacket which should be done AFTER you stitch the pocket front to the front of the jacket (as I guess the stitching reinforces the material and ensures you know where to cut). Luckily it all turned out OK and I would actually do it this way around next time as it seemed simpler and less fiddly. I also stitched the pocket onto the front of the jacket as this very early stage rather than right at the end as the instructions have you do. Again I'd do it this way next time as it seems less fiddly and easier.

I'm really happy with how this jacket turned out and as there was no temperamental overlocker involved it was actually a really enjoyable and relaxing sew. I NEVER find sewing relaxing so that was a surprising feeling for me! My overlocker is being a bit temperamental at the moment and does need to go in for a service, so it was nice to ignore it for a change.

...and the back view.

The fabric is a light wool from My Hung in Parramatta that cost just $7/m!!!! I bought it about 2 year ago to make a vest but the pattern I bought was so badly made I asked the company for a refund and got it! Since then it's sat in the stash waiting for a project to come to mind.

Because the fabric is virtually the same on both sides I used a sticker to mark the front of each piece so I wouldn't get confused - it worked well! The colour fabric was also great as it easily showed up the chalk markings that I used to ensure I was getting the correct seam allowances when overlapping the pieces prior to pinning and sewing.

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Pattern: "Sydney Jacket" by Tessuti
Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance.
Modifications: None.
Fabric: Mystery wool(ish) fabric from My Hung
Changes for next time: Sew an XL but try and make the sleeves longer!

Sydney Jacket

The Sydney Jacket is the latest pattern release from Tessuti, a short sleeved, unlined, woolen jacket made from wool that won't fray allowing the seams to go unfinished.  I wasn't going to make this jacket at first (I'm holding out for a sleeveless woolen vest pattern or simple cape pattern to come my way) but when I started seeing versions popping up on Instagram I HAD to have a Sydney Jacket!

The fabric is from Spotlight, although I did go to both Tessuti and The Fabric Store looking for a grey boiled wool to no avail (my fabric hunt cost me over $20 in tolls, $15 in parking and 80kms in driving that day - that's dedication)! The label on the fabric says it's a "Wool Boucle" which cannot be right as isn't that the fabric Coco Chanel makes her trademark jackets from (ie the fabric that frays like crazy)? After some deliberation I decided to wash the fabric in cold water...Spotlight Castle Hill is like an old man's backyard shed and I just felt that this fabric NEEDED to be washed. It shrunk by 20cms which is OK as I actually bought 20cm too much.

I was a little nervous about sewing this pattern as it has a few new techniques for me. The seams are sewn by overlaping the right side onto the right side. In order to make sure I had my seam allowance right I marked every seam with tailors chalk before pinning. I wanted to be extra sure that I had enough fabric on the underside of the seam so that the jacket wouldn't fall apart on me.

I was also a bit nervous about the pockets. It took all my spatial abilities (of which I have few) to figure out which way was "up" for the pockets. Whilst the pattern instructions are good, I think one or two more pictures of how the pattern piece was meant to "fit" wouldn't have gone astray.  Close ups are fine for detail but I need to see the bigger picture also.  Cutting a hole into the fabric once the pocket was ready to become a pocket was a bit nerve-wracking - I was extra careful and went VERY slow to ensure that I didn't cut beyond where I was supposed to.

All in all I'm pretty pleased with my Sydney Jacket. I thought I'd have a million problems trying to sew this, but things went pretty much OK. My machine did have a few dramas - it couldn't seem to be get going and the needle would just go up and down on the same spot. Some percussive maintenance soon sorted that out. I also found out that I'm unable to raise my presser foot to help fit bulky fabric underneath it...I know some machines have this function, but mine annoyingly does not which is surprising as it's a quilting machine.

For this version of the jacket I've sewn an XL. After wearing it for a week I think it is too big and next time I'll try an L. Last night I washed my jacket in hot water and chucked it in the drier which was made it a tad smaller, but really only succeeded in making it shorter and making the short sleeves even shorter. Now that I've sewn the jacket once and know which pattern pieces belong to the sleeve (the pattern pieces are a bit mind-bending) I'm going to lengthen the sleeves to at least below elbow if my fabric allows. Whilst the jacket is "warm-ish" I want my sleeves longer...Sydney winter isn't freezing by any means but I do want longer sleeves.

Pattern: "Sydney Jacket" by Tessuti
Size: XL, sewn with 3/8" seam allowance.
Modifications: None.
Fabric: Mystery wool(ish) fabric from Spotlight
 Changes for next time: Sew an XL and make the sleeves longer!

The 6 month Tokyo Jacket

I started this Tokyo Jacket back in April and finally finished it in the last weekend of August....as you do!

The fabric is from Tessuti (where else) and is a lovely, buttery soft, Japanese Crepe. Though, let's translate that statement shall we: the fabric looks and feels LOVELY = a nightmare to sew and cut! The fabric frayed like a...crazy fraying thing and at one stage I thought the whole thing was going to fray itself to death.

I started this jacket in one of Tessuti's "open classes" where you go along and sew a Tessuti pattern under the guidance of a teacher. In my class we had Silva teaching...she's the Yoda of the sewing world let me tell you!

The fabric took a while to cut out and when I came to attaching the neckband I realised I'd somehow cut it out WAY too short so I couldn't finish the jacket (not that I was anywhere close to that stage anyway). Sadly for me I didn't actually have enough fabric to recut the neckband but Tessuti VERY kindly set aside a piece of the fabric for me so I could recut the neckband another time.

I was going to finish the jacket at home, but after talking to Colette (who owns the store) I went back to Tessuti in August to finish the jacket. Silva was right when she said the neckband was the trickiest part to of the jacket and it would be better to do it the first time in a class environment. It was a bit fiddly to turn the fabric under and topstitch it down so the edge was encased and halfway through attaching the collar the collar started to "shift" and "grow" and "bubble".  It was pretty clear I was going end up in a mess! This is the benefit of the class - you look at the teacher with teary, puppy-dog eyes and she'll get you out of mess.



In my rush to finish the jacket in my second class I somehow sewed the cuffs on the wrong way so they couldn't be turned up as the pattern calls for. In the end I decided just to cut them off and hem the sleeves for a nice, clean (and easy) finish. If you know this pattern you'll also notice I've left off the pocket band...just to ensure I actaully finished the jacket this decade.

This jacket is far from perfect..and took me nearly five months to complete but I'm really proud of it. The fit isn't spot on around my shoulders/arms, but if I push the sleeves up it's comfy and wearable. Perhaps next time I'd make the sleeves shorter so I wouldn't have this issue.  I'm pleased that I stuck with the project despite the fabric being a bit difficult for me to work with. I have some fabric in my stash earmarked for a casual, summery version so watch this space...but don't hold your breath.